Cosmetic
ingredient library.
Understand what goes into a formula, and why. Explore practical profiles for skincare, body care and hair care — from familiar actives to the ingredients that hold everything together.
All ingredients
Individual materials and common formulation blends, explained.
Try a shorter name, an INCI term, or remove a filter.
AAllantoin
Skin-conditioning activeA crystalline ingredient used in products intended to leave dry or uncomfortable-feeling skin smoother and more comfortable. Limited water solubility is a key formulation constraint.
Allantoin
A crystalline ingredient used in products intended to leave dry or uncomfortable-feeling skin smoother and more comfortable. Limited water solubility is a key formulation constraint.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.1–0.5% is a practical dissolved-product starting range; higher supplier levels require a suitable suspension.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Limited water solubility, about 0.5% near ambient conditions
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Dissolve or disperse according to the intended system. Check the cooled product for crystals before and during stability testing.
- pH considerations
- Referenced stability range: pH 3–8.
Heating can temporarily dissolve more than will remain dissolved after cooling. Recrystallisation may create grittiness even when the hot batch looked clear.
Glycerin, panthenol and suitable emollients in comfort-focused products.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
AAloe vera juice
Botanical aqueous base · skin conditionerA water-rich botanical material used in gels, creams and hair products. A single-strength juice is very different from a concentrated aloe powder.
Aloe vera juice
A water-rich botanical material used in gels, creams and hair products. A single-strength juice is very different from a concentrated aloe powder.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 1–100% of the referenced single-strength juice, depending on the product.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water miscible
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Use as part of the aqueous phase, accounting for its water and the preservative carried in with it.
- pH considerations
- Referenced raw-material pH: 3.5–5.0. Measure the finished product independently.
The cited juice contains sodium benzoate, sodium sulfite, potassium sorbate and citric acid. Its own preservation does not automatically protect a diluted or reformulated product.
Glycerin, compatible gel formers and panthenol.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
AArgan oil
Botanical emollientA kernel oil used for a rich, supple skin feel and shine in hair products. Refining and deodorising affect the colour and odour of the supplied oil.
Argan oil
A kernel oil used for a rich, supple skin feel and shine in hair products. Refining and deodorising affect the colour and odour of the supplied oil.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- Illustrative: 1–10% in emulsions; higher proportions in oil blends.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil soluble; water insoluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Oil phase. Blend into the oil phase. Minimise unnecessary heat and air exposure during processing and storage.
- pH considerations
- No aqueous pH applies to the neat oil.
Check oxidation specifications and batch odour. Use origin and processing claims only when supported by the actual supplier grade; not all argan oils are unrefined.
Hemisqualane in hair oils; tocopherol in a tested antioxidant system.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
AAristoflex AVC
Pre-neutralised polymer · gel-cream stabiliserA powder polymer used for elegant water gels and light gel-creams. It can stabilise selected oil loads with a smooth, quick-breaking texture.
Aristoflex AVC
A powder polymer used for elegant water gels and light gel-creams. It can stabilise selected oil loads with a smooth, quick-breaking texture.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.5–2% of the supplied polymer.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water dispersible and hydrating
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Disperse using the supplier’s gel or emulsion process. It can be used without a separate neutralisation step.
- pH considerations
- Supplier stability range: pH 4–9.
Highly sensitive to electrolytes. Sodium lactate, mineral salts and some protein extracts can cause viscosity loss. Do not assume a successful plain gel will tolerate added actives.
Glycerin and low-salt actives; modest compatible oil loads.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
AAscorbic acid
Vitamin C · antioxidant activeThe unmodified form of vitamin C, used in carefully developed cosmetic systems. It is water-soluble but readily oxidises in aqueous products.
Ascorbic acid
The unmodified form of vitamin C, used in carefully developed cosmetic systems. It is water-soluble but readily oxidises in aqueous products.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 1–4% is the cited ultrafine grade’s guide; specialised high-strength products are outside this profile.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble; insoluble in ordinary oils
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Dissolve in water or deliberately suspend an appropriate fine grade in an anhydrous base. An oil suspension is not an oil solution.
- pH considerations
- It acidifies water strongly; the cited 5% test solution is pH 2.2–2.5, not a recommended finished-product target.
Monitor colour and active stability, and use suitable protective packaging. pH, oxygen and trace metals matter. Avoid benzoate-preserved systems without specialist compatibility assessment.
Ferulic acid in a designed solvent system; compatible chelation and humectants.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
BBakuchiol
Oil-soluble skin-conditioning activeA plant-associated phenolic active used in cosmetic products aimed at the appearance of fine lines and uneven tone. A purified grade differs markedly from crude bakuchi oil.
Bakuchiol
A plant-associated phenolic active used in cosmetic products aimed at the appearance of fine lines and uneven tone. A purified grade differs markedly from crude bakuchi oil.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.5–1% of the referenced 99% grade.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil soluble; water insoluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Oil phase. Dilute into a suitable oil phase. The cited source advises avoiding prolonged heating above 75°C.
- pH considerations
- For water-containing products, the supplier recommends acidic conditions, preferably below pH 6.5.
Trace iron or copper can cause colour changes; compatible chelation may help. Use protective packaging and assess oxidation. Do not equate bakuchiol with retinol or substitute crude seed oil.
Squalane, triglycerides and a compatible chelator in emulsions.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
BBeeswax
Wax · oil-phase structurantA wax that thickens oils and gives balms a cohesive, protective feel. White grades are processed to reduce colour and characteristic odour.
Beeswax
A wax that thickens oils and gives balms a cohesive, protective feel. White grades are processed to reduce colour and characteristic odour.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- Illustrative: 1–10% in soft balms; higher levels create firmer sticks.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil compatible when melted; water insoluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Heated oil phase. Melt completely; the referenced wax melts at approximately 62–66°C. Blend before filling.
- pH considerations
- No aqueous pH applies to the neat wax.
Beeswax is not a complete stand-alone emulsifier for an ordinary water-and-oil cream. It is animal-derived and may add drag at higher concentrations.
Castor oil and cocoa butter in balms; an actual emulsifier in creams.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
BBisabolol
Oil-soluble skin conditionerAn oil-compatible ingredient used in soothing-feel cosmetic concepts. It can be plant-derived or made by other routes, so source claims depend on the purchased grade.
Bisabolol
An oil-compatible ingredient used in soothing-feel cosmetic concepts. It can be plant-derived or made by other routes, so source claims depend on the purchased grade.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.5–2% of the referenced material.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil soluble; water insoluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Cool-down. Add to the cool-down stage of an emulsion or mix into the oil phase for cold processing.
- pH considerations
- No aqueous pH applies to the neat material; use the emulsion’s appropriate range.
It needs proper incorporation into an oil phase, emulsion or verified solubilising system. Simply adding it to a water serum will not create an even distribution.
Squalane, light triglycerides and panthenol in a complete emulsion.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
BBroccoli seed oil
Botanical emollient · hair shine agentA seed oil used for slip and gloss, particularly in hair oils and conditioners. It has a distinctive fatty-acid profile and characteristic sensory properties.
Broccoli seed oil
A seed oil used for slip and gloss, particularly in hair oils and conditioners. It has a distinctive fatty-acid profile and characteristic sensory properties.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- Illustrative: 1–5% in emulsions or hair treatments; higher levels in oil blends.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil soluble; water insoluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Oil phase. Blend with the oil phase or add to a compatible anhydrous hair oil.
- pH considerations
- No aqueous pH applies to the neat oil.
Assess odour and colour in the final product. Although it can provide silicone-like slip in some blends, it is not chemically or functionally identical to dimethicone.
Hemisqualane for lighter hair oils; BTMS systems in conditioners.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
BBTMS-50
Cationic conditioner · emulsifying blendA conditioning emulsifier blend used to build creamy hair conditioners and improve detangling. The cited grade contains approximately 48–50% active conditioning agent.
BTMS-50
A conditioning emulsifier blend used to build creamy hair conditioners and improve detangling. The cited grade contains approximately 48–50% active conditioning agent.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.5–10% of the blend in the supplier guide; choose for product format and active content.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Hot-water dispersible; melts with the oil phase
- Phase & incorporation
- Heated oil phase. Heat the oil/emulsifier phase sufficiently to melt completely; the cited guide uses at least 80°C.
- pH considerations
- The source’s pH 5–7 value is for a 2% test preparation; set finished pH for the complete conditioner.
Cationic ingredients can interact with anionic surfactants and polymers. BTMS-25 and BTMS-50 are not equal-strength substitutes; the carriers may differ as well.
Cetyl alcohol, suitable oils and compatible hair-conditioning ingredients.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
BButylene glycol
Humectant · solventA water-miscible liquid commonly used in serums and botanical extracts. It provides a solvent medium and helps moderate the feel of a humectant blend.
Butylene glycol
A water-miscible liquid commonly used in serums and botanical extracts. It provides a solvent medium and helps moderate the feel of a humectant blend.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 1–10% of the supplied glycol.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Add to the aqueous phase or prepare a separate ingredient premix. Confirm dissolution before adding that premix to the bulk.
- pH considerations
- Finished-product pH is determined by the complete formulation.
Do not assume an ingredient that disperses in a glycol has dissolved. Precipitation may appear after dilution or cold storage. Count glycol already present in extracts.
Glycerin, sodium hyaluronate and water-soluble botanical extracts.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
CC12-15 alkyl benzoate
Ester emollient · dispersing mediumA spreading ester with a relatively dry finish. It can provide a useful solvent or wetting medium for selected lipophilic ingredients and particulate dispersions.
C12-15 alkyl benzoate
A spreading ester with a relatively dry finish. It can provide a useful solvent or wetting medium for selected lipophilic ingredients and particulate dispersions.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.5–15% of the supplied ester.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil soluble; water insoluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Oil phase. Add to the oil phase. For powders, prepare and assess a separate dispersion before incorporating it.
- pH considerations
- No aqueous pH applies to the neat material.
Solvent suitability is ingredient-specific. A pigment dispersion requires sufficient wetting, mixing and stability work; simply stirring a powder into an ester may not be enough.
Caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone and richer botanical oils.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
CCandelilla wax
Hard plant wax · structurantA hard plant wax that increases the firmness and gloss of sticks and balms. It often needs less material than softer waxes to make a firm structure.
Candelilla wax
A hard plant wax that increases the firmness and gloss of sticks and balms. It often needs less material than softer waxes to make a firm structure.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 1–30% is the supplier range; begin at the low end for soft balms.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil compatible when melted; water insoluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Heated oil phase. Melt thoroughly with the oil phase; the cited melting range is about 69–73°C.
- pH considerations
- No aqueous pH applies to the neat wax.
High levels can make sticks brittle and increase drag. Substitution for beeswax requires a texture trial, not a simple equal-weight swap.
Castor oil, cocoa butter and liquid esters to balance hardness and glide.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
CCaprylic/capric triglyceride
Emollient · oil carrierA relatively light triglyceride emollient that supplies slip and a less heavy feel than many unmodified botanical oils. It is also a useful carrier for oil-soluble materials.
Caprylic/capric triglyceride
A relatively light triglyceride emollient that supplies slip and a less heavy feel than many unmodified botanical oils. It is also a useful carrier for oil-soluble materials.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- Illustrative: 1–20% in emulsions; much higher proportions are possible in oil-based products.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil soluble; water insoluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Oil phase. Combine with the oil phase before emulsification, or blend directly into an anhydrous oil product.
- pH considerations
- Neat oil has no meaningful aqueous pH. In emulsions, assess the whole formulation.
CCT is not identical to whole coconut oil. The caprylic/capric ratio and grade affect feel. Oil-soluble powders still need a solubility check at storage temperature.
Squalane and botanical oils; an appropriate emulsifier when water is present.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
CCastor oil
Viscous emollient · pigment wetting aidA viscous oil rich in ricinoleic-acid triglycerides. It adds cushion and gloss, and can help wet selected pigments in colour or lip formulations.
Castor oil
A viscous oil rich in ricinoleic-acid triglycerides. It adds cushion and gloss, and can help wet selected pigments in colour or lip formulations.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- Illustrative: 1–10% in emulsions; larger proportions in glosses and balms.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil phase compatible; water insoluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Oil phase. Mix with other compatible oils. Pre-wet powders separately where a smooth dispersion is needed.
- pH considerations
- No aqueous pH applies to the neat oil.
High levels can feel sticky or heavy. Test pigment wetting and settling rather than treating oil wetting as solubility. Its viscosity affects filling and packaging.
Candelilla wax and cocoa butter in balms; lighter esters to reduce drag.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
CCationic guar
Conditioning polymer · deposition aidA modified guar polymer that adds conditioning and can assist deposition in shampoos. Its positive charge distinguishes it from ordinary guar gum.
Cationic guar
A modified guar polymer that adds conditioning and can assist deposition in shampoos. Its positive charge distinguishes it from ordinary guar gum.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.2–0.4% of the referenced GuarCat powder.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Hydrates in water
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Disperse carefully and follow the specific grade’s hydration method before completing the surfactant blend.
- pH considerations
- pH can influence hydration and interaction with other ingredients; follow the grade’s process.
It is not interchangeable with unmodified guar or tara gum. Too much can affect clarity, foam and feel. Surfactant compatibility and deposition are formula-dependent.
Suitable shampoo surfactants and humectants in a tested blend.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
CCentella asiatica extract
Botanical skin conditionerA botanical extract used in comfort and barrier-oriented skincare concepts. Different centella extracts can have very different triterpene content.
Centella asiatica extract
A botanical extract used in comfort and barrier-oriented skincare concepts. Different centella extracts can have very different triterpene content.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 1–5% of the referenced glycerin/water extract.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Cool-down. Blend in during cool-down or the water phase of a cold process, with adequate mixing.
- pH considerations
- Check the selected extract’s specification and the complete formula’s target pH.
Do not equate this diluted extract with isolated madecassoside or a standardised high-potency fraction. Include its glycerin and preservatives in the formulation accounting.
Panthenol, glycerin and compatible ceramide emulsions.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
CCeramide complex
Pre-dispersed barrier-lipid systemA supplied dispersion of ceramides and supporting lipids for moisturising products. It provides a practical way to incorporate otherwise challenging lipid ingredients.
Ceramide complex
A supplied dispersion of ceramides and supporting lipids for moisturising products. It provides a practical way to incorporate otherwise challenging lipid ingredients.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 3–5% of the cited dispersion; supplier states 2.5% active matter in the raw material.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Supplied aqueous lipid dispersion
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Use the supplier’s incorporation method. The cited material can enter the aqueous phase and tolerate heating to 80°C.
- pH considerations
- Referenced finished-product range: pH 5–7.
Five per cent of this blend is not 5% pure ceramides. The anionic carrier may conflict with cationic emulsions and can alter viscosity. Include its carrier and preservatives in the full declaration.
Non-ionic emulsion systems, glycerin and compatible emollients.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
CCeteareth-20
Non-ionic emulsifier · co-emulsifierAn ethoxylated fatty-alcohol emulsifier used to help bring oil and water together. It commonly works alongside fatty alcohols or other emulsifiers.
Ceteareth-20
An ethoxylated fatty-alcohol emulsifier used to help bring oil and water together. It commonly works alongside fatty alcohols or other emulsifiers.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 1–3% of the referenced material.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Disperses in heated emulsion phases
- Phase & incorporation
- Heated oil phase. Melt or disperse as instructed for the selected emulsifier system before combining the phases.
- pH considerations
- Check the grade and final formula rather than relying on HLB to predict pH tolerance.
HLB is about 15.5 for the cited grade. It contributes emulsification but does not automatically deliver the desired viscosity or preservation.
Cetearyl alcohol and lipophilic co-emulsifiers; compatible conditioner systems.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
CCetearyl alcohol
Fatty alcohol blend · viscosity builderA mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols used to create body in creams and hair conditioners. The ratio varies between grades.
Cetearyl alcohol
A mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols used to create body in creams and hair conditioners. The ratio varies between grades.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- Illustrative: 1–5% in emulsions; specialist solid products may use more.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil compatible when melted; water insoluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Heated oil phase. Melt with the oil phase and emulsifier; monitor texture as the product cools.
- pH considerations
- Choose pH for the complete emulsion, not for the fatty alcohol alone.
It is a co-structurant rather than a complete emulsifier. Different cetyl/stearyl ratios can alter viscosity and waxiness, even at the same percentage.
Cationic conditioners, Olivem 1000 or glyceryl stearate-based emulsifiers.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
CCetrimonium chloride
Cationic hair conditionerA quaternary ammonium conditioning ingredient used to reduce static and improve hair combing. It is supplied at different active concentrations.
Cetrimonium chloride
A quaternary ammonium conditioning ingredient used to reduce static and improve hair combing. It is supplied at different active concentrations.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- Illustrative rinse-off starting range: 0.5–2% of a 30% solution, giving 0.15–0.6% active.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Add to a compatible conditioning system and calculate the total active cationic content.
- pH considerations
- Reference pH 3–4 is for a test dilution, not a finished-product prescription.
Use restrictions depend on product type, function and combinations with related quaternaries. Check current market limits. Compatibility with anionic materials requires deliberate design rather than assumption.
Fatty alcohols and compatible non-ionic emulsifiers in rinse-off conditioners.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
CCetyl alcohol
Fatty alcohol · co-structurantA waxy fatty alcohol that gives creams and conditioners body and slip. It behaves very differently from volatile alcohols such as ethanol.
Cetyl alcohol
A waxy fatty alcohol that gives creams and conditioners body and slip. It behaves very differently from volatile alcohols such as ethanol.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- Illustrative: 1–5% in emulsions; the supplier permits broader use in other formats.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil compatible when melted; water insoluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Heated oil phase. Melt into the oil phase before emulsification and allow the final texture to develop during cooling.
- pH considerations
- Assess finished pH according to the emulsifier and active system.
It supports structure but normally needs a primary emulsifier. Increasing it may add waxiness or drag; judge viscosity after the emulsion has fully cooled and matured.
Glyceryl stearate/PEG-100 stearate systems; BTMS in conditioners.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
CChamomile extract
Botanical skin conditionerA water/glycerin extract of chamomile flowers used in gentle-feeling cosmetic concepts. It is distinct from chamomile essential oil and isolated bisabolol.
Chamomile extract
A water/glycerin extract of chamomile flowers used in gentle-feeling cosmetic concepts. It is distinct from chamomile essential oil and isolated bisabolol.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.1–2% of the referenced extract.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Cool-down. Add during cool-down or blend into water for cold processing.
- pH considerations
- Use the extract’s grade-specific information and confirm the finished-product pH.
The botanical can contribute colour and odour. Assess the whole product’s tolerance and claims; a plant-derived ingredient is not automatically suitable for every user. Include carried preservatives.
Panthenol, glycerin and suitable water-phase ingredients.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
CCitric acid
Acidifier · buffer componentA water-soluble acid used to lower formulation pH and, with an appropriate citrate salt, create a buffer. The required amount depends on the entire formula.
Citric acid
A water-soluble acid used to lower formulation pH and, with an appropriate citrate salt, create a buffer. The required amount depends on the entire formula.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- q.s. to a measured target pH; no universal final-product percentage.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Final adjustment. Use a known-concentration aqueous solution for controlled addition, mix fully and remeasure after equilibration.
- pH considerations
- Lowers pH. Record the pH method, temperature and final value.
A concentrated pH-adjusting stock is not its final dose in a cosmetic. Avoid chasing the target with alternating large acid/base additions, which increases salt content and may thin gels.
Sodium citrate in a designed buffer; compatible aqueous formulas.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
CCocamidopropyl betaine
Amphoteric surfactant · foam supportA liquid surfactant frequently blended with anionic cleansers to tune foam, viscosity and the feel after rinsing. The cited grade is approximately 30% active.
Cocamidopropyl betaine
A liquid surfactant frequently blended with anionic cleansers to tune foam, viscosity and the feel after rinsing. The cited grade is approximately 30% active.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- Illustrative: 3–15% of a 30% active solution, within the supplier’s wider range.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Mix gently to avoid excessive aeration. Calculate the total active surfactant matter of the complete blend.
- pH considerations
- Charge behaviour and salt response depend on the final pH and surfactant system.
A 10% addition of a 30% grade contributes about 3% active surfactant. Residual impurities and grade quality matter. Salt thickening has an optimum rather than increasing indefinitely.
Sodium cocoyl isethionate, glucosides and suitable conditioning polymers.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
CCoco-glucoside
Non-ionic cleansing surfactantAn alkyl polyglucoside surfactant used in face washes, body washes and shampoos. The supplied concentrate can be strongly alkaline despite the intended product being mildly acidic.
Coco-glucoside
An alkyl polyglucoside surfactant used in face washes, body washes and shampoos. The supplied concentrate can be strongly alkaline despite the intended product being mildly acidic.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 1–25% of the cited 51–53% active solution.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water dispersible
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Blend with other surfactants using controlled mixing, then adjust and measure final pH.
- pH considerations
- Reference concentrate pH: 11.5–12.5. This is not a finished-product target.
Measure active surfactant matter and assess foam, viscosity and clarity after pH adjustment. Glucoside systems may need a polymeric thickener rather than ordinary salt thickening.
Cocamidopropyl betaine, amino-acid surfactants and compatible thickeners.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
CCocoa butter
Hard butter · structuring emollientA relatively firm fat that helps give balms and bars body and a melting skin feel. Deodorised grades reduce, but may not eliminate, the cocoa aroma.
Cocoa butter
A relatively firm fat that helps give balms and bars body and a melting skin feel. Deodorised grades reduce, but may not eliminate, the cocoa aroma.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- Illustrative: 1–10% in creams; 5–40% in balms and solid products.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil soluble when melted
- Phase & incorporation
- Heated oil phase. Melt with the oil phase and use a controlled cooling process.
- pH considerations
- No aqueous pH applies to the neat butter.
Crystal formation influences brittleness, bloom and graininess. A butter that is firm at room temperature can soften substantially in hot transport conditions.
Shea butter, castor oil and candelilla wax for adjustable balm hardness.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
CCoenzyme Q10
Oil-soluble antioxidant activeAn orange-coloured antioxidant used in cosmetic oil phases and moisturisers. Although oil-compatible, its limited solubility needs attention.
Coenzyme Q10
An orange-coloured antioxidant used in cosmetic oil phases and moisturisers. Although oil-compatible, its limited solubility needs attention.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.2–3% in the supplier guide; practical dissolved levels depend on the selected oil and temperature.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Limited oil solubility; water insoluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Oil phase. Dissolve with gentle oil-phase warming, then confirm it stays dissolved after cooling and storage.
- pH considerations
- No aqueous pH applies to the neat powder; assess the full emulsion where applicable.
Solubility during heating does not guarantee storage stability. Crystallisation and the orange colour can affect the finished product. A pre-solubilised grade has a different active concentration.
Suitable oil carriers, tocopherol and compatible emulsion systems.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
DDimethicone
Silicone emollient · slip agentA silicone fluid that improves glide and can reduce the greasy feel of a formula. Different viscosity grades behave differently despite sharing the same INCI.
Dimethicone
A silicone fluid that improves glide and can reduce the greasy feel of a formula. Different viscosity grades behave differently despite sharing the same INCI.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.5–5% is typical for the cited 350 cSt fluid.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water insoluble; compatibility with oils varies
- Phase & incorporation
- Oil phase. Blend into a suitable oil phase and use an emulsifier that can accommodate the silicone load.
- pH considerations
- No aqueous pH applies to the neat fluid.
Do not substitute a low-viscosity fluid or silicone emulsion by weight without checking composition. Test separation and the finished feel after repeated application.
Compatible esters and triglycerides; cationic conditioning systems in hair products.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
DDisodium EDTA
Chelator · formula protection aidA chelating agent that binds trace metal ions which can contribute to discolouration or oxidation. It can also support the performance of some preservative systems.
Disodium EDTA
A chelating agent that binds trace metal ions which can contribute to discolouration or oxidation. It can also support the performance of some preservative systems.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.1–0.3% of the referenced powder.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble; dissolution can be slow
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Add early to the aqueous phase and allow adequate time for dissolution.
- pH considerations
- Solubility becomes more limited in strongly acidic systems, especially below about pH 3.5.
Chelation is not standalone preservation. The additional electrolyte load may affect sensitive gels. Tetrasodium EDTA is a different salt with different pH effects.
Water-containing emulsions, preservative systems and oxidation-sensitive actives.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
EEctoin
Osmolyte · skin-conditioning activeA fermentation-derived osmolyte used in hydration and barrier-support cosmetic concepts. It can be incorporated into water-based serums and moisturising emulsions.
Ectoin
A fermentation-derived osmolyte used in hydration and barrier-support cosmetic concepts. It can be incorporated into water-based serums and moisturising emulsions.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.1–2% of the referenced powder.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Cool-down. Dissolve in a reserved water portion and add at or below 40°C, as directed for the cited grade.
- pH considerations
- Use the chosen grade’s stability data and the finished formula’s pH requirements.
Assess cost, sensory contribution and evidence for the intended finished-product claims. A raw-material benefit does not itself demonstrate performance of a finished cream.
Panthenol, glycerin and sodium hyaluronate.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
EEmulsifying wax NF
Self-emulsifying wax blendA complete emulsifying wax system commonly used for approachable cream and lotion bases. Products sold as emulsifying wax can have different compositions.
Emulsifying wax NF
A complete emulsifying wax system commonly used for approachable cream and lotion bases. Products sold as emulsifying wax can have different compositions.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- Approximately 3–5% for lotions and 5–10% for creams in the cited guide.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Disperses through the hot oil phase
- Phase & incorporation
- Heated oil phase. Melt into the oils before emulsification. Choose the amount in relation to the oil load and desired texture.
- pH considerations
- Confirm the supplied blend’s compatibility with the intended final pH.
The trade description alone is not a full INCI. Check the supplier composition before substituting another wax. Increasing the level can make a cream waxier.
Plant oils, butters and glycerin; a small aqueous thickener if needed.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
EEsterquat conditioning blend
Cationic esterquat · conditioner baseA conditioning blend used to create creamy rinse-off hair products. The referenced Varisoft EQ 65 combines approximately 65% esterquat with fatty alcohol.
Esterquat conditioning blend
A conditioning blend used to create creamy rinse-off hair products. The referenced Varisoft EQ 65 combines approximately 65% esterquat with fatty alcohol.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 1–10% of the blend in the cited supplier guide.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Hot-water dispersible; melts on heating
- Phase & incorporation
- Heated oil phase. Process at the grade’s specified hot-phase conditions, approximately 75–85°C, then cool with appropriate mixing.
- pH considerations
- Supplier target: pH 4–4.5; hydrolysis can become a concern above pH 5.
Control pH after all additions and check it during storage. Further fatty alcohol can increase body. Avoid untested combinations with anionic polymers or surfactants.
Cetyl or cetearyl alcohol and compatible emollients in hair conditioners.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
FFerulic acid
Phenolic antioxidant activeA phenolic antioxidant used in selected skincare systems. Solubility is often the main development challenge, especially in clear aqueous serums.
Ferulic acid
A phenolic antioxidant used in selected skincare systems. Solubility is often the main development challenge, especially in clear aqueous serums.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.5–1% in the cited supplier guide.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Soluble in selected solvents; limited simple-water solubility
- Phase & incorporation
- Solvent premix. Prepare a suitable solvent premix and confirm that dilution into the full formula does not cause precipitation.
- pH considerations
- pH affects solubility and stability; choose a validated target for the complete antioxidant system.
A milky dispersion is not a clear solution. Watch for crystals after cold storage. Combining antioxidants can be useful, but any stability or efficacy claim needs formulation-specific support.
Ascorbic acid in a designed system; suitable glycols or other verified solvents.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
GGluconolactone
Polyhydroxy-acid precursor · humectantA water-soluble lactone that gradually forms gluconic acid in water. It is used for hydration, pH effects and PHA-oriented cosmetic concepts.
Gluconolactone
A water-soluble lactone that gradually forms gluconic acid in water. It is used for hydration, pH effects and PHA-oriented cosmetic concepts.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.1–5% of the referenced powder.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Dissolve in water and allow the system to equilibrate before making final pH decisions.
- pH considerations
- pH decreases over time as hydrolysis proceeds; the reference notes a gradual change over about an hour in a test solution.
Recheck pH after manufacture and during stability testing. Gluconolactone alone is not the same material as a gluconolactone/sodium benzoate preservation blend.
Glycerin, acid-tolerant rheology modifiers and a compatible buffer where needed.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
GGluconolactone & sodium benzoate
Preservative blend · NeoDefend referenceA powder blend that combines an organic-acid preservation component with a lactone. The finished pH can continue changing after the batch is made.
Gluconolactone & sodium benzoate
A powder blend that combines an organic-acid preservation component with a lactone. The finished pH can continue changing after the batch is made.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.75–1.5% of the cited blend. Check total benzoate contributions and grade composition.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Dissolve fully in the aqueous phase or a reserved water portion before addition to an existing emulsion.
- pH considerations
- Referenced working range: pH 3–6; monitor downward drift over time.
A buffer may be needed, but its concentration must suit the complete formula and polymer tolerance. This blend is not pure gluconolactone and requires its own preservation validation.
A designed citrate buffer where needed; compatible humectants and emulsifiers.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
GGlycerin
Humectant · solventA clear, viscous liquid that helps retain water in the outer skin layers. It is a useful foundation for moisturising creams, cleansing products and water-based serums.
Glycerin
A clear, viscous liquid that helps retain water in the outer skin layers. It is a useful foundation for moisturising creams, cleansing products and water-based serums.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 2–5% of the supplied glycerin. Higher levels change tack and sensory feel.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Mix into the aqueous phase. It can also wet gums before hydration; this disperses the powder but does not dissolve it.
- pH considerations
- No single finished-product target is imposed by glycerin; choose the range required by the whole formula.
Balance hydration against stickiness. Glycerin at normal cosmetic levels does not replace a preservative, and it will not make essential oils dissolve in water.
Panthenol and sodium PCA for hydration; oils and squalane for a softer after-feel.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
GGlyceryl stearate & PEG-100 stearate
Oil-in-water emulsifier blendA non-ionic emulsifier combination used to make smooth emulsions while allowing considerable control over viscosity through separate structuring ingredients.
Glyceryl stearate & PEG-100 stearate
A non-ionic emulsifier combination used to make smooth emulsions while allowing considerable control over viscosity through separate structuring ingredients.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 1–5% of the cited Lotionpro 165 grade; supplier suggests 4% as an initial trial.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil-phase compatible when melted
- Phase & incorporation
- Heated oil phase. Melt with the oil phase and emulsify with the water phase at a suitable matching temperature.
- pH considerations
- Check the selected grade’s stability data and the finished system’s pH.
This blend is not pure glyceryl stearate and should not be treated as such. It may need fatty alcohols or aqueous thickeners to achieve the desired body.
Cetyl alcohol, xanthan gum and a balanced oil blend.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
GGlyceryl stearate lactylate emulsifier blend
Anionic oil-in-water emulsifier blendA lactylate-based emulsifying blend that gives creams a conditioned, powdery after-feel. The cited ECOMulse grade combines emulsification and body.
Glyceryl stearate lactylate emulsifier blend
A lactylate-based emulsifying blend that gives creams a conditioned, powdery after-feel. The cited ECOMulse grade combines emulsification and body.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 2–10% of the blend; the supplier commonly suggests about 8%.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Disperses in the hot oil phase
- Phase & incorporation
- Heated oil phase. Melt in the oil phase. Add acidic cool-down ingredients after the emulsion forms, then check final pH.
- pH considerations
- Referenced finished-product range: pH 5–7.5.
The cited system is intended for oil phases up to about 25%. Its anionic character requires care with cationic conditioners; do not assume mutual compatibility.
Botanical oils, humectants and compatible non-ionic structure builders.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
GGreen tea extract
Botanical skin conditionerA leaf extract used in botanical skincare concepts. The extraction solvent and marker content determine what is actually delivered by a given percentage.
Green tea extract
A leaf extract used in botanical skincare concepts. The extraction solvent and marker content determine what is actually delivered by a given percentage.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 1–5% of the referenced glycerin/water extract.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Cool-down. Add during emulsion cool-down or to the aqueous phase in a cold process.
- pH considerations
- The cited liquid is around pH 4.4; this is not a universal finished-product target.
It can add brown colour and odour. The cited grade contains benzoate/sorbate preservatives. It is not equivalent to pure EGCG, a tea infusion or a dry extract.
Glycerin, niacinamide and compatible emulsion systems.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
HHemisqualane
Light emollient · spreading agentA low-viscosity hydrocarbon used to give dry oils, hair products and emulsions a lighter, more spreading feel. The cited commercial grade is fermentation-derived.
Hemisqualane
A low-viscosity hydrocarbon used to give dry oils, hair products and emulsions a lighter, more spreading feel. The cited commercial grade is fermentation-derived.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 1–60% of the referenced material; choose the level for the product’s sensory target.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil soluble; water insoluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Oil phase. Blend with compatible oils. Follow the grade’s handling and temperature guidance when heating.
- pH considerations
- Neat material has no aqueous pH.
It can reduce the heavy feel of richer oils, but it is not a universal replacement for every silicone. Recheck viscosity, package compatibility and evaporation behaviour.
Squalane, dimethicone where compatible, and botanical oils.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
HHydrolysed rice protein
Protein-derived film former · hair conditionerA liquid containing smaller rice-protein fragments, used to support conditioned feel and film formation. It can be used in both hair and skin products.
Hydrolysed rice protein
A liquid containing smaller rice-protein fragments, used to support conditioned feel and film formation. It can be used in both hair and skin products.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 2–5% of the referenced supplied liquid; this is not a dry-protein percentage.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Cool-down. Add below 40°C after an emulsion has formed, or to the aqueous phase of a suitable cold process.
- pH considerations
- Use the grade’s stability information and the final preservation requirements.
Protein solids, molecular-weight profile and preservatives vary by supplier. The cited grade contains benzyl alcohol, potassium sorbate and sodium benzoate. Electrolytes may thin sensitive gels.
Panthenol and compatible conditioners or shampoo systems.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
HHydroxyethylcellulose
Non-ionic cellulose thickenerA cellulose-derived polymer used to make aqueous gels and thicken cleansers or emulsions. Hydration speed and final viscosity depend strongly on the grade.
Hydroxyethylcellulose
A cellulose-derived polymer used to make aqueous gels and thicken cleansers or emulsions. Hydration speed and final viscosity depend strongly on the grade.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.1–3% of the referenced Natrosol grade.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble after hydration
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Disperse into near-neutral water and allow hydration. The cited grade hydrates more quickly with gentle warming around 28–30°C.
- pH considerations
- Water pH influences hydration time; adjust the final formula after the polymer has hydrated.
Too much heat or an unsuitable initial pH can promote lumps. Viscosity values for one HEC grade cannot be transferred to another without checking the specification.
Glycerin, suitable surfactants and compatible cationic systems after trials.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
HHydroxypropyl methylcellulose
Non-ionic cellulose thickener · film formerA cellulose ether used for body and film formation in water-containing products. Different substitution and viscosity grades have different processing requirements.
Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose
A cellulose ether used for body and film formation in water-containing products. Different substitution and viscosity grades have different processing requirements.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.5–3% for the referenced Benecel E10M grade.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble after correct hydration
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Use the grade-specific dispersion and hydration method. Add to the aqueous phase and allow viscosity to develop.
- pH considerations
- Confirm grade stability; the supplier’s pH 5–8 test specification is not a universal formulation limit.
Hydration and thermal behaviour vary between grades. A polymer that looks dispersed may still be incompletely hydrated; recheck viscosity after equilibration.
Humectants and compatible surfactants; other polymers when a blended texture is needed.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
IIsopropyl myristate
Ester emollient · spreading agentA light ester used to improve spreading and reduce the heavy, greasy character of richer oil phases. It also acts as a solvent for selected oil-compatible materials.
Isopropyl myristate
A light ester used to improve spreading and reduce the heavy, greasy character of richer oil phases. It also acts as a solvent for selected oil-compatible materials.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 1–10% of the supplied ester.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil soluble; water insoluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Oil phase. Blend with the oil phase or anhydrous oils before filling.
- pH considerations
- No aqueous pH applies to the neat material.
Its solvent behaviour may affect packaging and other ingredients. Evaluate the intended skin feel and formula tolerance instead of applying universal pore-clogging scores.
Castor oil or butters to lighten feel; suitable oil-phase actives.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
JJojoba oil
Emollient · liquid waxA liquid wax ester often grouped with botanical oils. It gives slip and a cushioned feel to facial oils, lip products and emulsion oil phases.
Jojoba oil
A liquid wax ester often grouped with botanical oils. It gives slip and a cushioned feel to facial oils, lip products and emulsion oil phases.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 1–25% is the supplier’s typical range; anhydrous oils may use up to 100%.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil soluble; water insoluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Oil phase. Add to the oil phase or cold-blend into an anhydrous product.
- pH considerations
- No aqueous pH applies to the neat oil.
Clear and golden grades differ in colour and processing. Jojoba can cloud or solidify when cold, so assess the chosen grade in the intended storage conditions.
Squalane for lighter oils; shea butter and waxes in balms.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
LLactic acid
Acidifier · AHA ingredientAn alpha-hydroxy acid used for pH adjustment or in separately designed exfoliating products. The referenced liquid is a 90% concentrate.
Lactic acid
An alpha-hydroxy acid used for pH adjustment or in separately designed exfoliating products. The referenced liquid is a 90% concentrate.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- For pH adjustment: q.s. to the measured target. Acid-active products require a separate concentration and tolerance assessment.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water miscible
- Phase & incorporation
- Final adjustment. Use a controlled, known-concentration dilution following the SDS. Mix completely before measuring pH again.
- pH considerations
- Lowers pH; both pH and total acid content determine the behaviour of an AHA product.
A 1% addition of a 90% raw material contributes about 0.9% lactic acid before neutralisation. Do not substitute a diluted grade without adjusting the batch calculation.
Compatible buffers, humectants and acid-tolerant thickeners.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
LLiquorice root extract
Botanical skin conditionerA botanical root extract used in even-tone and comfort-oriented skincare concepts. Water-soluble and oil-soluble liquorice fractions are different raw materials.
Liquorice root extract
A botanical root extract used in even-tone and comfort-oriented skincare concepts. Water-soluble and oil-soluble liquorice fractions are different raw materials.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 2–5% of the cited glycerin/water extract.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Cool-down. Add at 40°C or below during cool-down, or mix with the aqueous phase in a cold process.
- pH considerations
- Confirm compatibility with the complete formula and the extract’s preservation system.
This liquid is not a standardised pure glabridin or dipotassium glycyrrhizate ingredient. Avoid transferring evidence or use levels between these distinct materials.
Niacinamide, panthenol and water-compatible humectants.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
MMagnesium ascorbyl phosphate
Water-soluble vitamin C derivativeA vitamin C derivative used in skin-conditioning and even-tone formulations. It has different solubility and pH requirements from free ascorbic acid.
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate
A vitamin C derivative used in skin-conditioning and even-tone formulations. It has different solubility and pH requirements from free ascorbic acid.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.2–3% is the source’s typical range; higher levels need additional solubility and stability work.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble within grade limits
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Dissolve in water; gentle warming can help. Allow enough water for full dissolution before incorporating into an emulsion.
- pH considerations
- The reference recommends pH 6–7; discolouration may develop below pH 6.
Its electrolyte load can weaken salt-sensitive gels. Do not reuse a low-pH ascorbic-acid recipe by simply exchanging the vitamin C ingredient.
Compatible humectants, an appropriate emulsifier and salt-tolerant thickening.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
MMandelic acid
Alpha-hydroxy acid · exfoliating activeAn AHA used in exfoliating cosmetic concepts. The amount of free acid depends on both concentration and pH, so percentage alone does not describe the product’s strength.
Mandelic acid
An AHA used in exfoliating cosmetic concepts. The amount of free acid depends on both concentration and pH, so percentage alone does not describe the product’s strength.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- Supplier formulation range: 1–10% powder; select within a separately assessed acid-product design.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Dissolve completely, incorporate uniformly and measure final pH with a suitable calibrated method.
- pH considerations
- The source works around pH 3–4. Increasing pH progressively shifts the acid towards its salt form.
Assess irritation potential, contact time, packaging and directions for the finished product. Do not use an ingredient range as a ready-made peel recipe.
Glycerin and an acid-tolerant thickener; a preservative validated at the final pH.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
MMango butter
Solid emollient · texture builderA seed butter used to give creams and anhydrous products body with a relatively restrained odour in refined grades.
Mango butter
A seed butter used to give creams and anhydrous products body with a relatively restrained odour in refined grades.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- Illustrative: 1–10% in creams; 5–40% in anhydrous balms or body butters.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil soluble when melted
- Phase & incorporation
- Heated oil phase. Melt fully before emulsification or blending. Keep the cooling process consistent between batches.
- pH considerations
- No aqueous pH applies to the neat butter.
Changing the butter-to-liquid-oil ratio alters firmness and melting behaviour. Test the formula across likely storage temperatures rather than substituting butter one-for-one.
Caprylic/capric triglyceride, shea butter and waxes.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
MMeadowfoam seed oil
Botanical emollient · sensory modifierAn oil characterised by long-chain fatty acids and good oxidative stability relative to many more polyunsaturated oils. It contributes a smooth, cushioned skin feel.
Meadowfoam seed oil
An oil characterised by long-chain fatty acids and good oxidative stability relative to many more polyunsaturated oils. It contributes a smooth, cushioned skin feel.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- Illustrative: 1–10% in emulsions; higher levels in facial or body oils.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil soluble; water insoluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Oil phase. Combine with the oil phase or cold-blend into an anhydrous formula.
- pH considerations
- No aqueous pH applies to the neat oil.
A stable oil does not make the entire formula oxidation-proof. Evaluate the blend, fragrance, package and storage conditions together.
Squalane, jojoba oil and richer butters.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
MMontanov 68
Oil-in-water emulsifier blendA non-ionic glucoside and fatty-alcohol system used in lotions and creams. It builds both emulsification and structure into the oil phase.
Montanov 68
A non-ionic glucoside and fatty-alcohol system used in lotions and creams. It builds both emulsification and structure into the oil phase.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 1–5% of the supplied blend.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Disperses through a heated oil phase
- Phase & incorporation
- Heated oil phase. Melt with oils at about 75°C. Emulsify with a heated water phase, then reduce shear during cooling.
- pH considerations
- Supplier compatibility window: pH 3–12; the finished formula may have tighter limits.
Cooling and mixing affect the final texture. Do not assess the final viscosity while hot or assume every glucoside emulsifier is interchangeable.
Botanical oils, glycerin and additional fatty alcohol where needed.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
NN-acetyl glucosamine
Skin-conditioning amino sugarA water-soluble amino sugar used in hydration and even-tone cosmetic concepts. It is frequently discussed alongside niacinamide in formulation development.
N-acetyl glucosamine
A water-soluble amino sugar used in hydration and even-tone cosmetic concepts. It is frequently discussed alongside niacinamide in formulation development.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 1–4% of the referenced powder.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Cool-down. Dissolve in water and add below 50°C according to the supplier guidance.
- pH considerations
- Check the raw-material stability information and choose a compatible finished-product pH.
The referenced grade is crustacean-derived and is not vegan. Other manufacturing routes exist; verify origin before making claims. High concentration can change clarity and colour.
Niacinamide in compatible systems; glycerin and panthenol.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
NNiacinamide
Skin-conditioning activeA form of vitamin B3 used in cosmetic products for hydration, skin-barrier support and a more even-looking complexion. It dissolves readily in water.
Niacinamide
A form of vitamin B3 used in cosmetic products for hydration, skin-barrier support and a more even-looking complexion. It dissolves readily in water.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 1–6% powder in the cited supplier guide.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Dissolve into the aqueous phase or a reserved portion of water, then combine thoroughly.
- pH considerations
- The reference recommends a finished pH around 6. Avoid prolonged exposure to strongly acidic processing conditions.
Consider the entire formula’s heat and pH history rather than applying blanket ingredient incompatibility rules. More niacinamide does not automatically give a better-tolerated product.
N-acetyl glucosamine, glycerin and panthenol in appropriately designed formulas.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
OOlivem 1000
Oil-in-water emulsifier blendAn olive-derived emulsifier system used to create creams and lotions with a structured, cushioned feel. Its behaviour depends on the oil phase and supporting thickeners.
Olivem 1000
An olive-derived emulsifier system used to create creams and lotions with a structured, cushioned feel. Its behaviour depends on the oil phase and supporting thickeners.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- Referenced guide: 3–4% for lower-viscosity emulsions; 7–8% for richer creams.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil-phase dispersible; melts on heating
- Phase & incorporation
- Heated oil phase. Heat the oil phase to about 80°C to melt fully, then emulsify with a suitably heated water phase.
- pH considerations
- Supplier compatibility window: pH 3–12; use a narrower final target suited to the actual product.
The cited oil-phase guide is around 25% maximum including emulsifier. A small amount of xanthan gum can improve stability. Confirm rub-out, viscosity and long-term separation.
Xanthan gum for aqueous support; cetyl or cetearyl alcohol for extra body.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
PPanthenol
Humectant · skin and hair conditionerAlso called provitamin B5, panthenol helps give skin and hair a moisturised, conditioned feel. It is available in liquid and powder grades with different compositions.
Panthenol
Also called provitamin B5, panthenol helps give skin and hair a moisturised, conditioned feel. It is available in liquid and powder grades with different compositions.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- Referenced liquid grade: 0.1–2% in leave-on products; 1–5% in rinse-off products.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Blend into the aqueous phase; cool-down addition is convenient where the process allows. Verify the assay of the grade purchased.
- pH considerations
- Choose a finished pH compatible with the selected grade and the other ingredients.
Liquid panthenol may be supplied neat or diluted. Do not assume every liquid is a 75% solution. Count actual panthenol content before substituting grades.
Glycerin and sodium hyaluronate for skin; hydrolysed rice protein in hair care.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
PPEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides
Mild cleansing aid · refatting agentA water-compatible surfactant/emollient used in micellar-style cleansers and cleansing blends. It can help remove oils while leaving a less stripped skin feel.
PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides
A water-compatible surfactant/emollient used in micellar-style cleansers and cleansing blends. It can help remove oils while leaving a less stripped skin feel.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.5–5% of the supplied material.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble; oil compatibility varies
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Add during heating or cool-down. For solubilisation, premix with the oil and determine the required ratio experimentally.
- pH considerations
- Choose pH for the complete cleansing and preservation system.
It is not a replacement for every primary foaming surfactant. The amount needed for clear solubilisation varies with the oil; some mixtures remain dispersions.
Water-phase humectants; primary surfactants in rinse-off cleansing products.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
PPhenoxyethanol
Antimicrobial preservative componentA preservative ingredient used in many water-containing cosmetics, often alongside a booster or a complementary antifungal component.
Phenoxyethanol
A preservative ingredient used in many water-containing cosmetics, often alongside a booster or a complementary antifungal component.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.25–1% in the source guide. Count phenoxyethanol entering from every blend and extract.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Limited water solubility; soluble in suitable glycols
- Phase & incorporation
- Cool-down. Distribute uniformly through the formula using a compatible phase or premix. Verify full incorporation.
- pH considerations
- Works across many cosmetic pH conditions, but final effectiveness depends on the whole formula.
A percentage within a supplier range does not prove broad-spectrum protection. Confirm applicable permitted levels and demonstrate preservation effectiveness in the finished product and packaging.
A validated booster or antifungal partner; compatible chelation.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
PPhenoxyethanol & caprylyl glycol
Preservative blend · Optiphen referenceA preservative system combining phenoxyethanol and a multifunctional glycol. Product composition and the emulsion structure influence how well it performs.
Phenoxyethanol & caprylyl glycol
A preservative system combining phenoxyethanol and a multifunctional glycol. Product composition and the emulsion structure influence how well it performs.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.5–1% is an initial screening range within the supplier’s broader guide; check the blend assay and total actives.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil/glycol compatible; water solubility limited
- Phase & incorporation
- Cool-down. The cited guide permits addition at or below 60°C. Mix well and reassess emulsion viscosity after addition.
- pH considerations
- The source recommends pH 4–8.
Do not treat all Optiphen-named products as equivalent. Preservation efficacy and any viscosity changes need testing in the actual formula. Observe market-specific limits for each active component.
Compatible emulsions, aqueous solvents and suitable chelation.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
PPhenoxyethanol & ethylhexylglycerin
Preservative blend · 90:10 reference gradeA common preservation system combining phenoxyethanol with a multifunctional booster. This profile refers specifically to the cited 90:10 blend.
Phenoxyethanol & ethylhexylglycerin
A common preservation system combining phenoxyethanol with a multifunctional booster. This profile refers specifically to the cited 90:10 blend.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.5–1% of the blend in the referenced guide. A 1% addition supplies about 0.9% phenoxyethanol.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Limited water solubility; glycol compatible
- Phase & incorporation
- Cool-down. Add with thorough mixing during cool-down. Check solubility in low-solvent aqueous products.
- pH considerations
- Supplier working range: pH 3–12; confirm efficacy at the actual final pH.
High levels of ethoxylated surfactants can reduce performance. Check total preservative content from all raw materials and validate the finished product by an appropriate preservation test.
Compatible chelators and formulation solvents such as propanediol.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
PPhenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol & sorbic acid
Preservative blend · Optiphen Plus referenceA preservation system with a sorbic-acid component, suited to appropriately acidic formulations. It differs from the two-component Optiphen blend.
Phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol & sorbic acid
A preservation system with a sorbic-acid component, suited to appropriately acidic formulations. It differs from the two-component Optiphen blend.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.75–1% is an initial screening range within the source’s broader guide; determine the final dose by assay and efficacy testing.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Blend-dependent dispersibility; incorporate uniformly
- Phase & incorporation
- Cool-down. Follow the selected grade’s incorporation instructions and check homogeneity after cooling.
- pH considerations
- The cited supplier describes best performance below pH 6.
Higher pH reduces the contribution of sorbic acid. Count all preservative actives across the formula and verify allowable levels. A blend name is not proof of adequate preservation.
Acid-compatible emulsions, humectants and suitable chelators.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
PPolyquaternium-7
Cationic conditioning polymerA conditioning polymer used in shampoos and cleansers to improve slip and the feel after rinsing. It is designed for use in many surfactant systems.
Polyquaternium-7
A conditioning polymer used in shampoos and cleansers to improve slip and the feel after rinsing. It is designed for use in many surfactant systems.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.05–10% of the cited liquid grade; confirm solids content before substituting another supply.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Blend into the water or surfactant phase with controlled mixing and assess clarity.
- pH considerations
- The cited raw material has pH 3–5. Check final formula requirements separately.
Grades differ in polymer solids and viscosity. The reference contains sodium benzoate, which enters the finished formula. Compatibility with a surfactant class does not guarantee clarity in every blend.
Cocamidopropyl betaine and appropriate anionic shampoo surfactants.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
PPolysorbate 20
Solubiliser · high-HLB emulsifierA non-ionic surfactant often used to disperse small fragrance or oil loads in water-based products. It can also support a blended emulsifier system.
Polysorbate 20
A non-ionic surfactant often used to disperse small fragrance or oil loads in water-based products. It can also support a blended emulsifier system.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- Supplier range: 1–20%; the actual amount depends on the oil and required clarity.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water dispersible / soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Premix with the oil or fragrance where appropriate, then add gradually to water and assess the result.
- pH considerations
- Choose a pH compatible with the entire formula and the supplied grade.
There is no universal oil-to-solubiliser ratio. A clear mixture on day one may haze or separate later. Solubilising fragrance does not preserve the water phase.
Small fragrance loads; sorbitan esters in designed emulsifier blends.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
PPolysorbate 80
Solubiliser · emulsifying surfactantA non-ionic surfactant used to help disperse oils and support oil-in-water emulsification. Its fatty-acid structure gives different behaviour from Polysorbate 20.
Polysorbate 80
A non-ionic surfactant used to help disperse oils and support oil-in-water emulsification. Its fatty-acid structure gives different behaviour from Polysorbate 20.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 1–20% in the supplier guide; optimise against the actual oil load.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water dispersible / soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Combine with the intended oil or emulsifier system and evaluate dispersion before scaling.
- pH considerations
- Confirm compatibility with the chosen finished-product pH.
A simple substitution for Polysorbate 20 may change clarity, feel and foam. Oxidation quality and interactions with preservatives can matter in long-term storage.
Sorbitan stearate in balanced emulsifiers; carrier oils in dispersible bath products.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
PPotassium sorbate
Acid-dependent antifungal preservative componentA water-soluble salt of sorbic acid used mainly to support yeast and mould control. It should not be assumed to provide complete bacterial coverage on its own.
Potassium sorbate
A water-soluble salt of sorbic acid used mainly to support yeast and mould control. It should not be assumed to provide complete bacterial coverage on its own.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.1–0.5% of the salt in the cited guide; check any acid-equivalent restrictions.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Cool-down. Pre-dissolve in a reserved water portion and add below 60°C according to the referenced guidance.
- pH considerations
- The supplier recommends a finished pH of 5 or below.
A pH drift upwards can weaken effectiveness. Count sorbate from other raw materials and validate a complete preservation system against relevant organisms.
Sodium benzoate or another appropriate bacterial-control partner; compatible buffering.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
PPropanediol
Humectant · solventA low-viscosity diol used to carry selected ingredients and contribute a smooth, hydrated skin feel. Its solvent behaviour differs from propylene glycol.
Propanediol
A low-viscosity diol used to carry selected ingredients and contribute a smooth, hydrated skin feel. Its solvent behaviour differs from propylene glycol.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 1–10% of the supplied material is a useful supplier reference range.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Blend into the water phase or use as a suitable premix solvent after checking the solubility of the target ingredient.
- pH considerations
- Select finished pH around the actives, preservative and thickener; a neutral raw material does not set it.
Can support some preservation systems, but does not independently establish microbial protection. Increasing the solvent load can alter viscosity and preservative partitioning.
Glycerin for humectancy; compatible preservative blends for a complete tested system.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
PPropylene glycol
Humectant · solventA widely used water-miscible solvent and humectant. It can help incorporate materials with limited water solubility when the full solvent system is suitable.
Propylene glycol
A widely used water-miscible solvent and humectant. It can help incorporate materials with limited water solubility when the full solvent system is suitable.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 1–20% is the cited supplier range; select the lowest level that delivers the required function.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Incorporate into water or use in a verified solvent premix. Check clarity again after the complete formula is assembled.
- pH considerations
- Choose pH for the finished system; glycol content alone is not a pH specification.
High solvent levels can change skin feel and tolerance. It is a different chemical from propanediol and should not be swapped without checking performance.
Ferulic acid in an appropriate solvent system; glycerin in hydration blends.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
RResveratrol
Polyphenol antioxidant activeA polyphenolic ingredient used in antioxidant skincare concepts. Its poor water solubility makes solvent selection and crystallisation checks especially important.
Resveratrol
A polyphenolic ingredient used in antioxidant skincare concepts. Its poor water solubility makes solvent selection and crystallisation checks especially important.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.2–1% of the referenced powder.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Poor water solubility; soluble in selected solvents
- Phase & incorporation
- Solvent premix. Use a verified solvent route and incorporate in cool-down. A glycol dispersion should not be described as a dissolved solution without confirmation.
- pH considerations
- Assess the selected grade’s stability at the finished formula’s pH.
Protect from light and evaluate both chemical stability and particle formation. Loading a raw powder into a water serum without a suitable carrier may create uneven distribution.
Suitable glycols or other verified solvents; compatible antioxidant systems.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
RRice bran oil
Botanical emollientAn oil from the outer layer of rice grain, used to add richness to creams and body products. Processing determines colour, odour and low-temperature clarity.
Rice bran oil
An oil from the outer layer of rice grain, used to add richness to creams and body products. Processing determines colour, odour and low-temperature clarity.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- Illustrative: 1–15% in emulsions; higher proportions in oil products.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil soluble; water insoluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Oil phase. Incorporate with the other oils. Warm only as necessary for the chosen formulation.
- pH considerations
- No aqueous pH applies to the neat oil.
The referenced grade is dewaxed but not winterised and may become hazy in the cold. This can be a physical change rather than evidence of microbial spoilage.
Sunflower oil, light esters and tocopherol.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
RRosehip seed oil
Botanical emollientAn unsaturated seed oil used in facial oils and creams. Its natural yellow-orange colour can influence the shade of the finished product.
Rosehip seed oil
An unsaturated seed oil used in facial oils and creams. Its natural yellow-orange colour can influence the shade of the finished product.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 5–10% is a typical supplier reference level; higher levels occur in anhydrous blends.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil soluble; water insoluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Oil phase. Limit heat and oxygen exposure. In emulsions, choose an addition stage that still achieves proper emulsification.
- pH considerations
- No aqueous pH applies to the neat oil.
Confirm the botanical species and its precise INCI. Oxidation management matters; monitor odour and peroxide specification. Antioxidants do not replace antimicrobial preservation.
Squalane and jojoba oil; tocopherol or rosemary antioxidant extract.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
RRosemary antioxidant extract
Oil-phase antioxidant blendA concentrated rosemary extract used to slow oil oxidation. This profile refers to an oil-soluble oleoresin grade, not rosemary essential oil or a water extract.
Rosemary antioxidant extract
A concentrated rosemary extract used to slow oil oxidation. This profile refers to an oil-soluble oleoresin grade, not rosemary essential oil or a water extract.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.02–0.1% of the cited grade containing at least 7% carnosic acid.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil soluble; water insoluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Oil phase. Preblend accurately into part of the oil phase, then mix evenly into the remainder.
- pH considerations
- No aqueous pH applies to this oil-based material.
Extract strength varies substantially between suppliers. Check colour and odour impact, and weigh accurately at low levels. It does not provide a water-containing product’s antimicrobial preservation.
Rosehip and other oxidation-prone oils; mixed tocopherols.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
SSepimax ZEN
Anionic thickener · suspension stabiliserA pre-neutralised powder polymer used in gels, cleansers and gel-creams. It generally tolerates electrolytes better than some other acrylic gel formers.
Sepimax ZEN
A pre-neutralised powder polymer used in gels, cleansers and gel-creams. It generally tolerates electrolytes better than some other acrylic gel formers.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.5–5% as a thickener/stabiliser; the source lists suspension effects from about 0.15%.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Hydrates in water
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Disperse gradually and allow full hydration, or use the supplier’s controlled-mixing process.
- pH considerations
- Referenced stability range: pH 2–8.
Its electrolyte tolerance is finite and formulation-dependent. As an anionic polymer it is generally unsuitable with cationic ingredients. Large oil loads need separate stability work.
Glycerin, selected acidic actives and compatible anionic or non-ionic cleansers.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
SSepinov EMT 10
Polymeric thickener · emulsion stabiliserA powder polymer that can build soft gels and support gel-cream textures. It works in hot or cold processes when incorporated correctly.
Sepinov EMT 10
A powder polymer that can build soft gels and support gel-cream textures. It works in hot or cold processes when incorporated correctly.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.5–5% of the supplied polymer.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Disperses and hydrates in water
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. For aqueous gels, disperse into water under mixing. For cream-gels, follow the specified oil-phase dispersion route.
- pH considerations
- Referenced stability range: pH 3–10.
Salts, cationics, solvents and the oil load can change performance. Process order matters; stabilising a small oil phase does not prove stability at a larger scale.
Non-ionic emulsifiers, suitable emollients and compatible humectants.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
SShea butter
Solid emollient · body builderA semi-solid fat used to build richness and cushion in creams, body butters and balms. Refined and unrefined grades differ in colour and odour.
Shea butter
A semi-solid fat used to build richness and cushion in creams, body butters and balms. Refined and unrefined grades differ in colour and odour.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- Illustrative: 1–10% in creams; 10–50% or more in anhydrous body products.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil soluble when melted
- Phase & incorporation
- Heated oil phase. Melt fully with the oil phase and control cooling to achieve the required crystal structure.
- pH considerations
- No aqueous pH applies to the neat butter.
Poor cooling or temperature cycling can produce graininess. Check texture after storage, not just immediately after manufacture; assess pumpability for emulsions.
Liquid oils to soften texture; waxes or fatty alcohols to build structure.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
SSodium benzoate
Acid-dependent preservative componentThe water-soluble salt of benzoic acid. Its preservative contribution increases in acidic conditions because more of the effective acid form is present.
Sodium benzoate
The water-soluble salt of benzoic acid. Its preservative contribution increases in acidic conditions because more of the effective acid form is present.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- Illustrative starting range: 0.1–0.5% of the salt. Permitted levels may be expressed as benzoic-acid equivalent.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Cool-down. Dissolve in water and incorporate uniformly; the cited guide recommends at or below 60°C.
- pH considerations
- Strongly pH-dependent; performance falls as pH rises. Use a system specifically validated at the product’s final pH.
Usually needs complementary antimicrobial coverage. Avoid combining with ascorbic-acid systems without specialist assessment. Count benzoate carried in extracts, polymers and other blends.
Potassium sorbate in a designed acidic system; compatible chelation.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
SSodium carbomer
Pre-neutralised synthetic gel formerA ready-neutralised acrylic polymer that thickens aqueous systems without the initial neutralisation step needed by many carbomer powders.
Sodium carbomer
A ready-neutralised acrylic polymer that thickens aqueous systems without the initial neutralisation step needed by many carbomer powders.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.2–0.5% of the referenced powder.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Swells in water
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Sprinkle slowly into water with mixing. Avoid dumping the powder into the vessel, which can trap dry material inside lumps.
- pH considerations
- A 0.5% gel is around pH 7 in the source. Strong acidification and salts can reduce viscosity.
Do not confuse sodium carbomer with an unneutralised carbomer grade. Electrolytes and cationic ingredients may destabilise the gel; check the final blend.
Low-electrolyte humectants and suitable non-ionic ingredients.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
SSodium citrate
Buffer salt · pH-control aidA citrate salt used with citric acid to help resist pH change. It is useful where raw materials or storage can cause gradual pH drift.
Sodium citrate
A citrate salt used with citric acid to help resist pH change. It is useful where raw materials or storage can cause gradual pH drift.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.1–1% is the supplier’s typical reference range; buffer design remains formulation-specific.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Dissolve in water and combine with the appropriate acid component. Adjust and verify the equilibrated finished pH.
- pH considerations
- A buffer’s target and capacity depend on the acid-to-salt ratio and total concentration.
Simply adding citrate does not lock any formula at a fixed pH. Its electrolyte contribution can change viscosity, especially in salt-sensitive polymer gels.
Citric acid; selected gluconolactone-containing systems after compatibility work.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
SSodium cocoyl apple amino acids
Amino-acid-derived anionic surfactantA liquid surfactant based on acylated apple amino acids. It contributes cleansing and foam in face, body and hair products.
Sodium cocoyl apple amino acids
A liquid surfactant based on acylated apple amino acids. It contributes cleansing and foam in face, body and hair products.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 1–25% of the cited Foaming Apple liquid grade.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Blend into the water/surfactant phase using gentle mixing to minimise entrained air.
- pH considerations
- Supplied grade pH: 6.5–7.5. Confirm final pH and stability after adjustment.
The supplier reports 29–34% dry extract; dry solids should not automatically be treated as an exact active-surfactant assay. Check the specification before calculating active matter.
Cocamidopropyl betaine, coco-glucoside and water-phase humectants.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
SSodium cocoyl isethionate
Anionic solid cleansing surfactantA solid surfactant used for creamy foam in syndet bars and selected paste or cream cleansers. The referenced powder is at least 82% active.
Sodium cocoyl isethionate
A solid surfactant used for creamy foam in syndet bars and selected paste or cream cleansers. The referenced powder is at least 82% active.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 2–53% of the cited powder, according to product format.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Poorly water soluble; incorporates into suitable surfactant blends
- Phase & incorporation
- Surfactant phase. Mix into a designed surfactant phase, often with an amphoteric partner. Control dust when handling the powder.
- pH considerations
- Reference pH of a 10% test dispersion: 4–6; verify the finished product separately.
Limited water solubility makes clear liquid cleansers difficult and can cause recrystallisation. Distinguish powder from noodles or blends with added fatty acids.
Cocamidopropyl betaine and suitable binders or fatty structurants in syndet bars.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
SSodium hyaluronate
Humectant · film formerThe sodium salt commonly sold as hyaluronic acid. High molecular weight powder builds a hydrated surface film and can add body to water-based serums.
Sodium hyaluronate
The sodium salt commonly sold as hyaluronic acid. High molecular weight powder builds a hydrated surface film and can add body to water-based serums.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.01–1% powder; the referenced grade is 1.0–1.5 MDa.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble; requires hydration
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Sprinkle into water or pre-wet with glycerin, then allow full hydration. The source advises addition below 60°C.
- pH considerations
- Check the selected molecular-weight grade’s stability data and the final preservative range.
Concentration and molecular weight strongly change stringiness and viscosity. A 1% stock solution is not the same as 1% dry powder; account for the stock’s water.
Glycerin, panthenol and niacinamide in compatible aqueous systems.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
SSodium lactate
Humectant · electrolyteThe sodium salt of lactic acid binds water and can support the feel of moisturising products. The powder and a diluted liquid grade require different formula weights.
Sodium lactate
The sodium salt of lactic acid binds water and can support the feel of moisturising products. The powder and a diluted liquid grade require different formula weights.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 1–5% of the referenced powder. Correct the dose if using a diluted solution.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Dissolve in the water phase. Record both the active material and any water introduced by a liquid grade.
- pH considerations
- Measure final pH. Sodium lactate is a salt, not an interchangeable acidifier for lactic acid.
Its electrolyte load can thin salt-sensitive polymers, particularly Aristoflex AVC. Check viscosity after adding other salts and again after storage.
Glycerin and urea in body creams; electrolyte-tolerant rheology modifiers.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
SSodium lauroyl oat amino acids
Amino-acid-derived anionic surfactantA liquid cleansing ingredient derived from oat amino acids. It is used to build mild-feeling cleanser and shampoo blends with other surfactants.
Sodium lauroyl oat amino acids
A liquid cleansing ingredient derived from oat amino acids. It is used to build mild-feeling cleanser and shampoo blends with other surfactants.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 1–25% of the referenced liquid grade.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Blend into the aqueous surfactant phase and avoid excessive foaming during manufacture.
- pH considerations
- Supplied grade pH: 6.5–7.5; evaluate the finished formula at its own target.
The grade contains a preservation system that must be included in the full ingredient accounting. Its 28–32% dry extract is not necessarily the precise active-surfactant percentage.
Amphoteric surfactants and compatible humectants; suitable shampoo-conditioning polymers.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
SSodium lauryl sulfoacetate
Anionic foaming surfactantA powdered surfactant used in foaming powders, solid cleansers and some liquid systems. It is chemically different from sodium lauryl sulfate.
Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate
A powdered surfactant used in foaming powders, solid cleansers and some liquid systems. It is chemically different from sodium lauryl sulfate.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 1–4% in liquids in the cited guide; solid or paste formats can use much more. Referenced active matter: at least 65%.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Surfactant phase. In liquids, add with controlled mixing and allow viscosity to equilibrate. Use dust control for powder handling.
- pH considerations
- The cited 1% test solution has pH about 6.3; set final pH for the complete formula.
Viscosity may continue changing for around 24 hours. The powder’s added weight includes non-active material, so do not assume a 100% active surfactant.
SCI in solid cleansers; amphoteric surfactants in suitable liquid blends.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
SSodium PCA
Humectant · skin conditionerA salt associated with the skin’s natural moisturising factor. This profile uses a 50% aqueous grade, which delivers half its added weight as sodium PCA.
Sodium PCA
A salt associated with the skin’s natural moisturising factor. This profile uses a 50% aqueous grade, which delivers half its added weight as sodium PCA.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.2–2.5% of the 50% solution for leave-on products; supplier guidance extends to 3% for rinse-off.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Mix into the aqueous phase. Include the carrier water in the batch calculation.
- pH considerations
- Confirm finished pH and polymer compatibility; the salt contributes electrolytes.
A 2% addition of a 50% grade supplies 1% sodium PCA. The referenced solution is unpreserved; it does not preserve the final product.
Glycerin and panthenol; a salt-tolerant thickener where a gel texture is needed.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
SSodium phytate
Chelator · formula protection aidA salt of phytic acid used to bind metal ions in water-containing formulations. The cited powder is derived from rice bran.
Sodium phytate
A salt of phytic acid used to bind metal ions in water-containing formulations. The cited powder is derived from rice bran.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.05–0.5% of the referenced powder.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble; oil insoluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Dissolve in the water phase before or during heating. It is unsuitable for a simple all-oil solution.
- pH considerations
- The cited grade is alkaline in water; the supplier recommends adjusting the final formula to pH 6 or below.
Recheck pH after adding it. Chelation behaviour and salt tolerance vary with the system. It cannot replace a complete antioxidant or antimicrobial preservation programme.
Botanical extracts, oxidation-sensitive actives and compatible preservatives.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
SSodium polyglutamate
Humectant · film formerA water-soluble polymer derived from polyglutamic acid. It contributes a moisture-retaining film and can complement the sensory profile of other humectants.
Sodium polyglutamate
A water-soluble polymer derived from polyglutamic acid. It contributes a moisture-retaining film and can complement the sensory profile of other humectants.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.05–1% of the referenced powder.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Introduce gradually into water with mixing. Allow hydration before evaluating clarity and viscosity.
- pH considerations
- Use the supplier’s grade-specific stability window; final pH should suit the complete system.
Molecular weight and salt content affect texture. Evaluate pilling and tack in the finished product rather than assuming a higher concentration will feel better.
Sodium hyaluronate, glycerin and panthenol in hydration-focused products.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
SSodium surfactin
Biosurfactant · emulsifying aidA fermentation-derived lipopeptide surfactant used at low levels in specialist cleansing and emulsifying systems. It needs a formulation process designed around its behaviour.
Sodium surfactin
A fermentation-derived lipopeptide surfactant used at low levels in specialist cleansing and emulsifying systems. It needs a formulation process designed around its behaviour.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.1–2.5% of the cited powder.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Aqueous/glycerin compatible; sensitive to conditions
- Phase & incorporation
- Surfactant phase. Follow the supplier’s premix and D-phase process where relevant. Introduce oils very slowly in those systems.
- pH considerations
- Source guidance is near neutral, around pH 6.3; acidic conditions can cause precipitation.
Calcium or magnesium ions may also precipitate it. Use suitable water quality and assess chelation. Published oil-loading examples are not universal guarantees for other oils.
Glycerin, a suitable chelator and compatible non-ionic surfactants.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
SSorbitan olivate
Lipophilic co-emulsifier · oil structurantAn olive-derived sorbitan ester used in selected water-in-oil emulsions, lipogels and pigment dispersions. This is the main INCI of Olivem 900.
Sorbitan olivate
An olive-derived sorbitan ester used in selected water-in-oil emulsions, lipogels and pigment dispersions. This is the main INCI of Olivem 900.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 5–7.5% as a primary W/O emulsifier in the cited grade; 1–2% as an O/W co-emulsifier.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil compatible when melted
- Phase & incorporation
- Heated oil phase. Melt at about 75°C and follow the grade-specific emulsification and cooling process.
- pH considerations
- Neat material has no aqueous pH; assess the water phase and emulsion system.
It is not the same product as Olivem 1000. Water-in-oil formulas require appropriate phase ratios and mixing; an equal-weight substitution can reverse or break the system.
Compatible oils and waxes; a primary O/W emulsifier when used only as support.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
SSorbitan stearate
Low-HLB co-emulsifierA lipophilic, non-ionic emulsifier often combined with a more hydrophilic partner. It helps tune an emulsifier blend to the oil phase.
Sorbitan stearate
A lipophilic, non-ionic emulsifier often combined with a more hydrophilic partner. It helps tune an emulsifier blend to the oil phase.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.75–5%; the supplier’s typical starting range is 0.75–1.5%.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil compatible when heated
- Phase & incorporation
- Heated oil phase. Add to the oil phase and heat to incorporate; the cited guide uses about 80°C.
- pH considerations
- Choose pH for the combined emulsifier system and finished product.
Its HLB is approximately 4.7. Low HLB does not mean it will reliably stabilise every water-in-oil product on its own; process and phase ratio still matter.
Polysorbate 80 or another appropriate high-HLB emulsifier.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
SSqualane
Emollient · sensory modifierA saturated hydrocarbon emollient with a smooth, spreading feel. Olive-derived and fermentation-derived grades share the INCI name but differ in source documentation.
Squalane
A saturated hydrocarbon emollient with a smooth, spreading feel. Olive-derived and fermentation-derived grades share the INCI name but differ in source documentation.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 2–10% is a useful emulsion starting range; oil serums can use considerably more.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil soluble; water insoluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Oil phase. Blend into the oil phase. It can be used in hot-process emulsions or cold-blended oil serums.
- pH considerations
- Aqueous pH does not apply to neat squalane.
Squalane and squalene are different materials: the latter is more oxidation-prone. Verify origin if making source or vegan claims, and assess packaging compatibility.
Caprylic/capric triglyceride, jojoba oil and oil-soluble actives.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
SStearic acid
Fatty acid · structurantA solid fatty acid used to add body and opacity. When deliberately neutralised, it forms stearate salts with different emulsifying and cleansing behaviour.
Stearic acid
A solid fatty acid used to add body and opacity. When deliberately neutralised, it forms stearate salts with different emulsifying and cleansing behaviour.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- Illustrative: 1–5% for structure in creams; higher levels are format-dependent.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil compatible when melted; water insoluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Heated oil phase. Melt in the oil phase. Where neutralisation is intended, use a designed process and measured neutraliser addition.
- pH considerations
- Neutralisation changes pH and material behaviour; it is not just a texture adjustment.
A stearic-acid cream and a soap-based stearate cream are different systems. Excess structure can create drag or a white rub-out effect.
Cetyl alcohol and a primary emulsifier; suitable oils to balance feel.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
SSunflower oil
Botanical emollient · carrierA versatile carrier oil used in creams, body oils and cleansing products. High-oleic and conventional sunflower oils have different fatty-acid profiles.
Sunflower oil
A versatile carrier oil used in creams, body oils and cleansing products. High-oleic and conventional sunflower oils have different fatty-acid profiles.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- Illustrative: 1–20% in emulsions; larger proportions in oil-based products.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil soluble; water insoluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Oil phase. Mix with the oil phase and protect the bulk stock from unnecessary light, heat and oxygen.
- pH considerations
- No aqueous pH applies to the neat oil.
The reference is a high-oleic grade. Do not transfer its oxidation or sensory assumptions to a high-linoleic grade without checking the specification.
Caprylic/capric triglyceride, shea butter and tocopherol.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
SSweet almond oil
Botanical emollientA spreading plant oil often used in body oils, creams and richer massage-style products. It contributes lubrication and softens the feel of the oil phase.
Sweet almond oil
A spreading plant oil often used in body oils, creams and richer massage-style products. It contributes lubrication and softens the feel of the oil phase.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- Illustrative: 1–20% in emulsions; higher proportions in anhydrous products.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil soluble; water insoluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Oil phase. Add to the oil phase. Check the grade’s refining status, storage advice and oxidation specification.
- pH considerations
- No aqueous pH applies to the neat oil.
This is a sweet-almond-derived material. Source and residual-protein information matter when assessing suitability and product claims; refining should not be assumed from the name.
Jojoba oil for body oils; cocoa butter and waxes for balms.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
TTara gum
Plant polysaccharide thickenerA seed-derived gum used to increase aqueous viscosity and support emulsion stability. It can provide a different texture from xanthan in gum blends.
Tara gum
A seed-derived gum used to increase aqueous viscosity and support emulsion stability. It can provide a different texture from xanthan in gum blends.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.5–2% of the referenced powder.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Hydrates in water; insoluble in oil
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Disperse with adequate agitation. The supplier describes hot and cold processing, with heating improving stabilising performance.
- pH considerations
- The cited 1% test solution is pH 5–7; assess finished-product compatibility separately.
Poor dispersion produces lumps. Hydration, gum quality and other dissolved solids influence body and clarity. It is a thickener, not a complete emulsifier or preservative.
Xanthan gum, glycerin and appropriate emulsion systems.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
TTetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
Oil-soluble vitamin C derivativeA lipophilic vitamin C derivative used in oil serums and emulsions. It is incorporated through the oil phase rather than dissolved in the water phase.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
A lipophilic vitamin C derivative used in oil serums and emulsions. It is incorporated through the oil phase rather than dissolved in the water phase.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.5–3% is the cited typical range.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil soluble; water insoluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Oil phase. Mix into the oil phase below 80°C as directed by the referenced supplier.
- pH considerations
- For emulsions, the cited formulation range is pH 3–6. Neat oil products have no aqueous pH.
Verify the exact INCI and specification rather than relying on similar vitamin C trade names. Protect the formula against oxidation and confirm packaging compatibility.
Squalane, caprylic/capric triglyceride and appropriate oil antioxidants.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
TTocopherol
Oil-phase antioxidantMixed tocopherols are used to slow oxidation in oil-containing formulations. They can also contribute skin-conditioning value in a finished cosmetic product.
Tocopherol
Mixed tocopherols are used to slow oxidation in oil-containing formulations. They can also contribute skin-conditioning value in a finished cosmetic product.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.25–0.75% in formulations for the cited 95% mixed-tocopherol grade.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Oil soluble; water insoluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Oil phase. Disperse into the oil phase, keeping unnecessary heat and air exposure low.
- pH considerations
- No aqueous pH applies to the neat material.
Tocopherol is an antioxidant, not an antimicrobial preservative. Vitamin E acetate is a different ingredient and should not be assumed to protect bulk oils in the same way.
Unsaturated botanical oils; rosemary antioxidant extract where suitable.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
TTromethamine
Base · neutralising agentA water-soluble organic base used to raise pH and neutralise suitable acid-containing ingredients or polymer systems.
Tromethamine
A water-soluble organic base used to raise pH and neutralise suitable acid-containing ingredients or polymer systems.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.1–1% is the cited typical guide; use only the amount required for the measured pH target.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Final adjustment. Add using the process specified for the selected polymer or formula. Mix thoroughly and recheck after equilibration.
- pH considerations
- Raises pH; the material’s pKa is not the finished product’s target pH.
Different rheology modifiers need different neutralisation sequences. Over-neutralisation can damage texture or active stability. Follow the raw-material SDS for handling.
Polymers that require neutralisation; appropriate aqueous acid/base systems.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
UUrea
Humectant · skin conditionerA small water-soluble molecule used in moisturisers for dry-feeling skin. It can alter skin feel substantially as concentration increases.
Urea
A small water-soluble molecule used in moisturisers for dry-feeling skin. It can alter skin feel substantially as concentration increases.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 2–10% is an illustrative moisturising range within the supplier’s broader range. Higher-strength products need separate development.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Water soluble
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Dissolve fully in water. Use a process that minimises unnecessary prolonged heating and check the cooled batch.
- pH considerations
- Monitor pH during storage; degradation can raise pH and produce an ammoniacal odour.
A buffer may be needed to limit drift. Check preservative effectiveness at the aged product’s pH, not only the release pH. High levels can thin some gels.
Glycerin, sodium lactate and emollients in body or foot-care creams.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
XXanthan gum
Aqueous thickener · suspension aidA fermentation-derived gum that builds viscosity and helps suspend particles or stabilise emulsions. The texture and clarity depend on the grade and concentration.
Xanthan gum
A fermentation-derived gum that builds viscosity and helps suspend particles or stabilise emulsions. The texture and clarity depend on the grade and concentration.
- Usage guide · % w/w
- 0.1–2% of the cited powder.
- Solubility / dispersion
- Hydrates in water; insoluble in oil
- Phase & incorporation
- Water phase. Pre-wet in glycerin or sprinkle into a well-mixed water vortex. Allow complete hydration before judging texture.
- pH considerations
- Useful across many cosmetic pH conditions; confirm limits for the actual grade and system.
High levels can feel stringy or leave a noticeable film. Clumps usually reflect poor wetting. An aqueous thickener supports an emulsion but does not replace an emulsifier.
Glycerin for wetting; Olivem 1000 and other compatible emulsifiers.
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
How to read the profiles & formulation terms
Usage ranges are material-specific
Percentages are weight/weight of the finished batch. An “as supplied” dose refers to that liquid, powder or blend — not necessarily pure active. A 2% addition of a 50% solution delivers 1% active. Illustrative ranges are development starting points, not legal limits or ready-made formulas.
INCI and commercial blends
INCI is the cosmetic ingredient naming system. Some profiles cover single substances; others cover common multi-ingredient blends. The identity shown is a reference, not a finished-product label. Use the supplier’s complete declaration, including carriers and preservatives, to build your own ingredient list.
pH, phase and solubility
A raw material’s test-solution pH is different from a recommended finished-product pH. Neat oils do not have a meaningful aqueous pH. “Water phase” describes incorporation, while “cool-down” describes a process stage. A dispersion or suspension is not necessarily a dissolved solution.
Pairings are starting points
Materials listed together may serve complementary roles; the pairing is not proof of compatibility. Grade, dose, ionic charge, processing and packaging can change the outcome. q.s. means the quantity needed to reach a measured endpoint.
Preservation and oxidation
Antioxidants help slow chemical oxidation; preservatives control microbial growth. They are different functions. Evaluate the preservation system in the finished formulation, including the effect of pH drift and preservatives already present in supplied ingredients.
From reference to finished product
Check current restrictions for the intended market and product type, and complete suitable stability, packaging and safety assessment. For GB, see official cosmetic product guidance. CosIng is an ingredient reference; an entry is not approval for use.
From ingredient to product.
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