SKDPHARMACEUTICALS
LEARNING ACADEMYCosmetic formulation / Reference 01
Explore the building blocks

Cosmetic
ingredient library.

Understand what goes into a formula, and why. Explore practical profiles for skincare, body care and hair care — from familiar actives to the ingredients that hold everything together.

100 ingredient profiles12 formulation rolesA–Z at your fingertips

All ingredients

Individual materials and common formulation blends, explained.

100 ingredients · A–ZHow to read a profile ↗

Allantoin

Skin-conditioning active

A crystalline ingredient used in products intended to leave dry or uncomfortable-feeling skin smoother and more comfortable. Limited water solubility is a key formulation constraint.

INCI / material identityAllantoin
Usage guide · % w/w
0.1–0.5% is a practical dissolved-product starting range; higher supplier levels require a suitable suspension.
Solubility / dispersion
Limited water solubility, about 0.5% near ambient conditions
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Dissolve or disperse according to the intended system. Check the cooled product for crystals before and during stability testing.
pH considerations
Referenced stability range: pH 3–8.
Formulation considerations

Heating can temporarily dissolve more than will remain dissolved after cooling. Recrystallisation may create grittiness even when the hot batch looked clear.

Often formulated alongside

Glycerin, panthenol and suitable emollients in comfort-focused products.

Creams & lotionsSerums & tonersCleansers & wash products
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Allantoin ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Aloe vera juice

Botanical aqueous base · skin conditioner

A water-rich botanical material used in gels, creams and hair products. A single-strength juice is very different from a concentrated aloe powder.

INCI / material identityAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice — check the full preserved-grade declaration
Usage guide · % w/w
1–100% of the referenced single-strength juice, depending on the product.
Solubility / dispersion
Water miscible
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Use as part of the aqueous phase, accounting for its water and the preservative carried in with it.
pH considerations
Referenced raw-material pH: 3.5–5.0. Measure the finished product independently.
Formulation considerations

The cited juice contains sodium benzoate, sodium sulfite, potassium sorbate and citric acid. Its own preservation does not automatically protect a diluted or reformulated product.

Often formulated alongside

Glycerin, compatible gel formers and panthenol.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotionsHair & scalp careCleansers & wash products
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Aloe Vera Juice 1X ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Argan oil

Botanical emollient

A kernel oil used for a rich, supple skin feel and shine in hair products. Refining and deodorising affect the colour and odour of the supplied oil.

INCI / material identityArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Usage guide · % w/w
Illustrative: 1–10% in emulsions; higher proportions in oil blends.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil soluble; water insoluble
Phase & incorporation
Oil phase. Blend into the oil phase. Minimise unnecessary heat and air exposure during processing and storage.
pH considerations
No aqueous pH applies to the neat oil.
Formulation considerations

Check oxidation specifications and batch odour. Use origin and processing claims only when supported by the actual supplier grade; not all argan oils are unrefined.

Often formulated alongside

Hemisqualane in hair oils; tocopherol in a tested antioxidant system.

Creams & lotionsFacial & body oilsBalms & solid productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Argan Oil, Virgin ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Aristoflex AVC

Pre-neutralised polymer · gel-cream stabiliser

A powder polymer used for elegant water gels and light gel-creams. It can stabilise selected oil loads with a smooth, quick-breaking texture.

INCI / material identityAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
Usage guide · % w/w
0.5–2% of the supplied polymer.
Solubility / dispersion
Water dispersible and hydrating
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Disperse using the supplier’s gel or emulsion process. It can be used without a separate neutralisation step.
pH considerations
Supplier stability range: pH 4–9.
Formulation considerations

Highly sensitive to electrolytes. Sodium lactate, mineral salts and some protein extracts can cause viscosity loss. Do not assume a successful plain gel will tolerate added actives.

Often formulated alongside

Glycerin and low-salt actives; modest compatible oil loads.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotions
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Aristoflex® AVC ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Ascorbic acid

Vitamin C · antioxidant active

The unmodified form of vitamin C, used in carefully developed cosmetic systems. It is water-soluble but readily oxidises in aqueous products.

INCI / material identityAscorbic Acid
Usage guide · % w/w
1–4% is the cited ultrafine grade’s guide; specialised high-strength products are outside this profile.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble; insoluble in ordinary oils
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Dissolve in water or deliberately suspend an appropriate fine grade in an anhydrous base. An oil suspension is not an oil solution.
pH considerations
It acidifies water strongly; the cited 5% test solution is pH 2.2–2.5, not a recommended finished-product target.
Formulation considerations

Monitor colour and active stability, and use suitable protective packaging. pH, oxygen and trace metals matter. Avoid benzoate-preserved systems without specialist compatibility assessment.

Often formulated alongside

Ferulic acid in a designed solvent system; compatible chelation and humectants.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotions
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — L-Ascorbic Acid, Ultrafine ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Bakuchiol

Oil-soluble skin-conditioning active

A plant-associated phenolic active used in cosmetic products aimed at the appearance of fine lines and uneven tone. A purified grade differs markedly from crude bakuchi oil.

INCI / material identityBakuchiol
Usage guide · % w/w
0.5–1% of the referenced 99% grade.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil soluble; water insoluble
Phase & incorporation
Oil phase. Dilute into a suitable oil phase. The cited source advises avoiding prolonged heating above 75°C.
pH considerations
For water-containing products, the supplier recommends acidic conditions, preferably below pH 6.5.
Formulation considerations

Trace iron or copper can cause colour changes; compatible chelation may help. Use protective packaging and assess oxidation. Do not equate bakuchiol with retinol or substitute crude seed oil.

Often formulated alongside

Squalane, triglycerides and a compatible chelator in emulsions.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotionsFacial & body oils
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Bakuchiol, 99% ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Beeswax

Wax · oil-phase structurant

A wax that thickens oils and gives balms a cohesive, protective feel. White grades are processed to reduce colour and characteristic odour.

INCI / material identityCera Alba
Usage guide · % w/w
Illustrative: 1–10% in soft balms; higher levels create firmer sticks.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil compatible when melted; water insoluble
Phase & incorporation
Heated oil phase. Melt completely; the referenced wax melts at approximately 62–66°C. Blend before filling.
pH considerations
No aqueous pH applies to the neat wax.
Formulation considerations

Beeswax is not a complete stand-alone emulsifier for an ordinary water-and-oil cream. It is animal-derived and may add drag at higher concentrations.

Often formulated alongside

Castor oil and cocoa butter in balms; an actual emulsifier in creams.

Balms & solid productsCreams & lotions
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Beeswax White NF ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Bisabolol

Oil-soluble skin conditioner

An oil-compatible ingredient used in soothing-feel cosmetic concepts. It can be plant-derived or made by other routes, so source claims depend on the purchased grade.

INCI / material identityBisabolol
Usage guide · % w/w
0.5–2% of the referenced material.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil soluble; water insoluble
Phase & incorporation
Cool-down. Add to the cool-down stage of an emulsion or mix into the oil phase for cold processing.
pH considerations
No aqueous pH applies to the neat material; use the emulsion’s appropriate range.
Formulation considerations

It needs proper incorporation into an oil phase, emulsion or verified solubilising system. Simply adding it to a water serum will not create an even distribution.

Often formulated alongside

Squalane, light triglycerides and panthenol in a complete emulsion.

Creams & lotionsFacial & body oilsBalms & solid products
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Bisabolol Natural ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Broccoli seed oil

Botanical emollient · hair shine agent

A seed oil used for slip and gloss, particularly in hair oils and conditioners. It has a distinctive fatty-acid profile and characteristic sensory properties.

INCI / material identityBrassica Oleracea Italica Seed Oil
Usage guide · % w/w
Illustrative: 1–5% in emulsions or hair treatments; higher levels in oil blends.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil soluble; water insoluble
Phase & incorporation
Oil phase. Blend with the oil phase or add to a compatible anhydrous hair oil.
pH considerations
No aqueous pH applies to the neat oil.
Formulation considerations

Assess odour and colour in the final product. Although it can provide silicone-like slip in some blends, it is not chemically or functionally identical to dimethicone.

Often formulated alongside

Hemisqualane for lighter hair oils; BTMS systems in conditioners.

Creams & lotionsFacial & body oilsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Broccoli Seed Oil ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

BTMS-50

Cationic conditioner · emulsifying blend

A conditioning emulsifier blend used to build creamy hair conditioners and improve detangling. The cited grade contains approximately 48–50% active conditioning agent.

INCI / material identityBehentrimonium Methosulfate, Cetyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol — referenced grade
Usage guide · % w/w
0.5–10% of the blend in the supplier guide; choose for product format and active content.
Solubility / dispersion
Hot-water dispersible; melts with the oil phase
Phase & incorporation
Heated oil phase. Heat the oil/emulsifier phase sufficiently to melt completely; the cited guide uses at least 80°C.
pH considerations
The source’s pH 5–7 value is for a 2% test preparation; set finished pH for the complete conditioner.
Formulation considerations

Cationic ingredients can interact with anionic surfactants and polymers. BTMS-25 and BTMS-50 are not equal-strength substitutes; the carriers may differ as well.

Often formulated alongside

Cetyl alcohol, suitable oils and compatible hair-conditioning ingredients.

Hair & scalp careCreams & lotions
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — BTMS-50 ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Butylene glycol

Humectant · solvent

A water-miscible liquid commonly used in serums and botanical extracts. It provides a solvent medium and helps moderate the feel of a humectant blend.

INCI / material identityButylene Glycol
Usage guide · % w/w
1–10% of the supplied glycol.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Add to the aqueous phase or prepare a separate ingredient premix. Confirm dissolution before adding that premix to the bulk.
pH considerations
Finished-product pH is determined by the complete formulation.
Formulation considerations

Do not assume an ingredient that disperses in a glycol has dissolved. Precipitation may appear after dilution or cold storage. Count glycol already present in extracts.

Often formulated alongside

Glycerin, sodium hyaluronate and water-soluble botanical extracts.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotionsCleansers & wash products
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Butylene Glycol, Natural ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

C12-15 alkyl benzoate

Ester emollient · dispersing medium

A spreading ester with a relatively dry finish. It can provide a useful solvent or wetting medium for selected lipophilic ingredients and particulate dispersions.

INCI / material identityC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Usage guide · % w/w
0.5–15% of the supplied ester.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil soluble; water insoluble
Phase & incorporation
Oil phase. Add to the oil phase. For powders, prepare and assess a separate dispersion before incorporating it.
pH considerations
No aqueous pH applies to the neat material.
Formulation considerations

Solvent suitability is ingredient-specific. A pigment dispersion requires sufficient wetting, mixing and stability work; simply stirring a powder into an ester may not be enough.

Often formulated alongside

Caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone and richer botanical oils.

Creams & lotionsFacial & body oilsBalms & solid products
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Ester AB, Natural ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Candelilla wax

Hard plant wax · structurant

A hard plant wax that increases the firmness and gloss of sticks and balms. It often needs less material than softer waxes to make a firm structure.

INCI / material identityEuphorbia Cerifera Cera
Usage guide · % w/w
1–30% is the supplier range; begin at the low end for soft balms.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil compatible when melted; water insoluble
Phase & incorporation
Heated oil phase. Melt thoroughly with the oil phase; the cited melting range is about 69–73°C.
pH considerations
No aqueous pH applies to the neat wax.
Formulation considerations

High levels can make sticks brittle and increase drag. Substitution for beeswax requires a texture trial, not a simple equal-weight swap.

Often formulated alongside

Castor oil, cocoa butter and liquid esters to balance hardness and glide.

Balms & solid productsCreams & lotions
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Candelilla Wax ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Emollient · oil carrier

A relatively light triglyceride emollient that supplies slip and a less heavy feel than many unmodified botanical oils. It is also a useful carrier for oil-soluble materials.

INCI / material identityCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Usage guide · % w/w
Illustrative: 1–20% in emulsions; much higher proportions are possible in oil-based products.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil soluble; water insoluble
Phase & incorporation
Oil phase. Combine with the oil phase before emulsification, or blend directly into an anhydrous oil product.
pH considerations
Neat oil has no meaningful aqueous pH. In emulsions, assess the whole formulation.
Formulation considerations

CCT is not identical to whole coconut oil. The caprylic/capric ratio and grade affect feel. Oil-soluble powders still need a solubility check at storage temperature.

Often formulated alongside

Squalane and botanical oils; an appropriate emulsifier when water is present.

Creams & lotionsFacial & body oilsBalms & solid productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — CCT 60/40 MB ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Castor oil

Viscous emollient · pigment wetting aid

A viscous oil rich in ricinoleic-acid triglycerides. It adds cushion and gloss, and can help wet selected pigments in colour or lip formulations.

INCI / material identityRicinus Communis Seed Oil
Usage guide · % w/w
Illustrative: 1–10% in emulsions; larger proportions in glosses and balms.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil phase compatible; water insoluble
Phase & incorporation
Oil phase. Mix with other compatible oils. Pre-wet powders separately where a smooth dispersion is needed.
pH considerations
No aqueous pH applies to the neat oil.
Formulation considerations

High levels can feel sticky or heavy. Test pigment wetting and settling rather than treating oil wetting as solubility. Its viscosity affects filling and packaging.

Often formulated alongside

Candelilla wax and cocoa butter in balms; lighter esters to reduce drag.

Creams & lotionsFacial & body oilsBalms & solid products
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Castor Oil ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Cationic guar

Conditioning polymer · deposition aid

A modified guar polymer that adds conditioning and can assist deposition in shampoos. Its positive charge distinguishes it from ordinary guar gum.

INCI / material identityGuar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Usage guide · % w/w
0.2–0.4% of the referenced GuarCat powder.
Solubility / dispersion
Hydrates in water
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Disperse carefully and follow the specific grade’s hydration method before completing the surfactant blend.
pH considerations
pH can influence hydration and interaction with other ingredients; follow the grade’s process.
Formulation considerations

It is not interchangeable with unmodified guar or tara gum. Too much can affect clarity, foam and feel. Surfactant compatibility and deposition are formula-dependent.

Often formulated alongside

Suitable shampoo surfactants and humectants in a tested blend.

Hair & scalp careCleansers & wash products
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — GuarCat™ ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Centella asiatica extract

Botanical skin conditioner

A botanical extract used in comfort and barrier-oriented skincare concepts. Different centella extracts can have very different triterpene content.

INCI / material identityGlycerin, Aqua, Centella Asiatica Extract — preserved liquid grade
Usage guide · % w/w
1–5% of the referenced glycerin/water extract.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Cool-down. Blend in during cool-down or the water phase of a cold process, with adequate mixing.
pH considerations
Check the selected extract’s specification and the complete formula’s target pH.
Formulation considerations

Do not equate this diluted extract with isolated madecassoside or a standardised high-potency fraction. Include its glycerin and preservatives in the formulation accounting.

Often formulated alongside

Panthenol, glycerin and compatible ceramide emulsions.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotions
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Centella Asiatica Extract ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Ceramide complex

Pre-dispersed barrier-lipid system

A supplied dispersion of ceramides and supporting lipids for moisturising products. It provides a practical way to incorporate otherwise challenging lipid ingredients.

INCI / material identityCeramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum — principal components
Usage guide · % w/w
3–5% of the cited dispersion; supplier states 2.5% active matter in the raw material.
Solubility / dispersion
Supplied aqueous lipid dispersion
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Use the supplier’s incorporation method. The cited material can enter the aqueous phase and tolerate heating to 80°C.
pH considerations
Referenced finished-product range: pH 5–7.
Formulation considerations

Five per cent of this blend is not 5% pure ceramides. The anionic carrier may conflict with cationic emulsions and can alter viscosity. Include its carrier and preservatives in the full declaration.

Often formulated alongside

Non-ionic emulsion systems, glycerin and compatible emollients.

Creams & lotionsSerums & toners
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Ceramide Complex ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Ceteareth-20

Non-ionic emulsifier · co-emulsifier

An ethoxylated fatty-alcohol emulsifier used to help bring oil and water together. It commonly works alongside fatty alcohols or other emulsifiers.

INCI / material identityCeteareth-20
Usage guide · % w/w
1–3% of the referenced material.
Solubility / dispersion
Disperses in heated emulsion phases
Phase & incorporation
Heated oil phase. Melt or disperse as instructed for the selected emulsifier system before combining the phases.
pH considerations
Check the grade and final formula rather than relying on HLB to predict pH tolerance.
Formulation considerations

HLB is about 15.5 for the cited grade. It contributes emulsification but does not automatically deliver the desired viscosity or preservation.

Often formulated alongside

Cetearyl alcohol and lipophilic co-emulsifiers; compatible conditioner systems.

Creams & lotionsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Ceteareth 20 ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Cetearyl alcohol

Fatty alcohol blend · viscosity builder

A mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols used to create body in creams and hair conditioners. The ratio varies between grades.

INCI / material identityCetearyl Alcohol
Usage guide · % w/w
Illustrative: 1–5% in emulsions; specialist solid products may use more.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil compatible when melted; water insoluble
Phase & incorporation
Heated oil phase. Melt with the oil phase and emulsifier; monitor texture as the product cools.
pH considerations
Choose pH for the complete emulsion, not for the fatty alcohol alone.
Formulation considerations

It is a co-structurant rather than a complete emulsifier. Different cetyl/stearyl ratios can alter viscosity and waxiness, even at the same percentage.

Often formulated alongside

Cationic conditioners, Olivem 1000 or glyceryl stearate-based emulsifiers.

Creams & lotionsHair & scalp careBalms & solid products
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Cetearyl Alcohol NF ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Cetrimonium chloride

Cationic hair conditioner

A quaternary ammonium conditioning ingredient used to reduce static and improve hair combing. It is supplied at different active concentrations.

INCI / material identityCetrimonium Chloride — referenced 30% aqueous solution
Usage guide · % w/w
Illustrative rinse-off starting range: 0.5–2% of a 30% solution, giving 0.15–0.6% active.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Add to a compatible conditioning system and calculate the total active cationic content.
pH considerations
Reference pH 3–4 is for a test dilution, not a finished-product prescription.
Formulation considerations

Use restrictions depend on product type, function and combinations with related quaternaries. Check current market limits. Compatibility with anionic materials requires deliberate design rather than assumption.

Often formulated alongside

Fatty alcohols and compatible non-ionic emulsifiers in rinse-off conditioners.

Hair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — CETAC 30%, Cetrimonium Chloride ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Cetyl alcohol

Fatty alcohol · co-structurant

A waxy fatty alcohol that gives creams and conditioners body and slip. It behaves very differently from volatile alcohols such as ethanol.

INCI / material identityCetyl Alcohol
Usage guide · % w/w
Illustrative: 1–5% in emulsions; the supplier permits broader use in other formats.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil compatible when melted; water insoluble
Phase & incorporation
Heated oil phase. Melt into the oil phase before emulsification and allow the final texture to develop during cooling.
pH considerations
Assess finished pH according to the emulsifier and active system.
Formulation considerations

It supports structure but normally needs a primary emulsifier. Increasing it may add waxiness or drag; judge viscosity after the emulsion has fully cooled and matured.

Often formulated alongside

Glyceryl stearate/PEG-100 stearate systems; BTMS in conditioners.

Creams & lotionsHair & scalp careBalms & solid products
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Cetyl Alcohol ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Chamomile extract

Botanical skin conditioner

A water/glycerin extract of chamomile flowers used in gentle-feeling cosmetic concepts. It is distinct from chamomile essential oil and isolated bisabolol.

INCI / material identityGlycerin, Aqua, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract — preserved liquid grade
Usage guide · % w/w
0.1–2% of the referenced extract.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Cool-down. Add during cool-down or blend into water for cold processing.
pH considerations
Use the extract’s grade-specific information and confirm the finished-product pH.
Formulation considerations

The botanical can contribute colour and odour. Assess the whole product’s tolerance and claims; a plant-derived ingredient is not automatically suitable for every user. Include carried preservatives.

Often formulated alongside

Panthenol, glycerin and suitable water-phase ingredients.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotionsCleansers & wash products
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Chamomile Extract ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Citric acid

Acidifier · buffer component

A water-soluble acid used to lower formulation pH and, with an appropriate citrate salt, create a buffer. The required amount depends on the entire formula.

INCI / material identityCitric Acid
Usage guide · % w/w
q.s. to a measured target pH; no universal final-product percentage.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Final adjustment. Use a known-concentration aqueous solution for controlled addition, mix fully and remeasure after equilibration.
pH considerations
Lowers pH. Record the pH method, temperature and final value.
Formulation considerations

A concentrated pH-adjusting stock is not its final dose in a cosmetic. Avoid chasing the target with alternating large acid/base additions, which increases salt content and may thin gels.

Often formulated alongside

Sodium citrate in a designed buffer; compatible aqueous formulas.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotionsCleansers & wash productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Citric Acid ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Cocamidopropyl betaine

Amphoteric surfactant · foam support

A liquid surfactant frequently blended with anionic cleansers to tune foam, viscosity and the feel after rinsing. The cited grade is approximately 30% active.

INCI / material identityCocamidopropyl Betaine
Usage guide · % w/w
Illustrative: 3–15% of a 30% active solution, within the supplier’s wider range.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Mix gently to avoid excessive aeration. Calculate the total active surfactant matter of the complete blend.
pH considerations
Charge behaviour and salt response depend on the final pH and surfactant system.
Formulation considerations

A 10% addition of a 30% grade contributes about 3% active surfactant. Residual impurities and grade quality matter. Salt thickening has an optimum rather than increasing indefinitely.

Often formulated alongside

Sodium cocoyl isethionate, glucosides and suitable conditioning polymers.

Cleansers & wash productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — SurfPro™ CAPB ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Coco-glucoside

Non-ionic cleansing surfactant

An alkyl polyglucoside surfactant used in face washes, body washes and shampoos. The supplied concentrate can be strongly alkaline despite the intended product being mildly acidic.

INCI / material identityCoco-Glucoside
Usage guide · % w/w
1–25% of the cited 51–53% active solution.
Solubility / dispersion
Water dispersible
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Blend with other surfactants using controlled mixing, then adjust and measure final pH.
pH considerations
Reference concentrate pH: 11.5–12.5. This is not a finished-product target.
Formulation considerations

Measure active surfactant matter and assess foam, viscosity and clarity after pH adjustment. Glucoside systems may need a polymeric thickener rather than ordinary salt thickening.

Often formulated alongside

Cocamidopropyl betaine, amino-acid surfactants and compatible thickeners.

Cleansers & wash productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — SurfPro™ CG ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Cocoa butter

Hard butter · structuring emollient

A relatively firm fat that helps give balms and bars body and a melting skin feel. Deodorised grades reduce, but may not eliminate, the cocoa aroma.

INCI / material identityTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Usage guide · % w/w
Illustrative: 1–10% in creams; 5–40% in balms and solid products.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil soluble when melted
Phase & incorporation
Heated oil phase. Melt with the oil phase and use a controlled cooling process.
pH considerations
No aqueous pH applies to the neat butter.
Formulation considerations

Crystal formation influences brittleness, bloom and graininess. A butter that is firm at room temperature can soften substantially in hot transport conditions.

Often formulated alongside

Shea butter, castor oil and candelilla wax for adjustable balm hardness.

Creams & lotionsBalms & solid products
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Cocoa Butter Wafers, Deodorized ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Coenzyme Q10

Oil-soluble antioxidant active

An orange-coloured antioxidant used in cosmetic oil phases and moisturisers. Although oil-compatible, its limited solubility needs attention.

INCI / material identityUbiquinone
Usage guide · % w/w
0.2–3% in the supplier guide; practical dissolved levels depend on the selected oil and temperature.
Solubility / dispersion
Limited oil solubility; water insoluble
Phase & incorporation
Oil phase. Dissolve with gentle oil-phase warming, then confirm it stays dissolved after cooling and storage.
pH considerations
No aqueous pH applies to the neat powder; assess the full emulsion where applicable.
Formulation considerations

Solubility during heating does not guarantee storage stability. Crystallisation and the orange colour can affect the finished product. A pre-solubilised grade has a different active concentration.

Often formulated alongside

Suitable oil carriers, tocopherol and compatible emulsion systems.

Creams & lotionsFacial & body oils
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Coenzyme Q10 Pure Powder ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Dimethicone

Silicone emollient · slip agent

A silicone fluid that improves glide and can reduce the greasy feel of a formula. Different viscosity grades behave differently despite sharing the same INCI.

INCI / material identityDimethicone
Usage guide · % w/w
0.5–5% is typical for the cited 350 cSt fluid.
Solubility / dispersion
Water insoluble; compatibility with oils varies
Phase & incorporation
Oil phase. Blend into a suitable oil phase and use an emulsifier that can accommodate the silicone load.
pH considerations
No aqueous pH applies to the neat fluid.
Formulation considerations

Do not substitute a low-viscosity fluid or silicone emulsion by weight without checking composition. Test separation and the finished feel after repeated application.

Often formulated alongside

Compatible esters and triglycerides; cationic conditioning systems in hair products.

Creams & lotionsHair & scalp careBalms & solid products
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — DM350 Dimethicone ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Disodium EDTA

Chelator · formula protection aid

A chelating agent that binds trace metal ions which can contribute to discolouration or oxidation. It can also support the performance of some preservative systems.

INCI / material identityDisodium EDTA
Usage guide · % w/w
0.1–0.3% of the referenced powder.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble; dissolution can be slow
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Add early to the aqueous phase and allow adequate time for dissolution.
pH considerations
Solubility becomes more limited in strongly acidic systems, especially below about pH 3.5.
Formulation considerations

Chelation is not standalone preservation. The additional electrolyte load may affect sensitive gels. Tetrasodium EDTA is a different salt with different pH effects.

Often formulated alongside

Water-containing emulsions, preservative systems and oxidation-sensitive actives.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotionsCleansers & wash productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Disodium EDTA ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Ectoin

Osmolyte · skin-conditioning active

A fermentation-derived osmolyte used in hydration and barrier-support cosmetic concepts. It can be incorporated into water-based serums and moisturising emulsions.

INCI / material identityEctoin
Usage guide · % w/w
0.1–2% of the referenced powder.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Cool-down. Dissolve in a reserved water portion and add at or below 40°C, as directed for the cited grade.
pH considerations
Use the chosen grade’s stability data and the finished formula’s pH requirements.
Formulation considerations

Assess cost, sensory contribution and evidence for the intended finished-product claims. A raw-material benefit does not itself demonstrate performance of a finished cream.

Often formulated alongside

Panthenol, glycerin and sodium hyaluronate.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotionsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Ectoin ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Emulsifying wax NF

Self-emulsifying wax blend

A complete emulsifying wax system commonly used for approachable cream and lotion bases. Products sold as emulsifying wax can have different compositions.

INCI / material identityCetearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60 — referenced grade
Usage guide · % w/w
Approximately 3–5% for lotions and 5–10% for creams in the cited guide.
Solubility / dispersion
Disperses through the hot oil phase
Phase & incorporation
Heated oil phase. Melt into the oils before emulsification. Choose the amount in relation to the oil load and desired texture.
pH considerations
Confirm the supplied blend’s compatibility with the intended final pH.
Formulation considerations

The trade description alone is not a full INCI. Check the supplier composition before substituting another wax. Increasing the level can make a cream waxier.

Often formulated alongside

Plant oils, butters and glycerin; a small aqueous thickener if needed.

Creams & lotionsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Emulsifying Wax NF ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Esterquat conditioning blend

Cationic esterquat · conditioner base

A conditioning blend used to create creamy rinse-off hair products. The referenced Varisoft EQ 65 combines approximately 65% esterquat with fatty alcohol.

INCI / material identityDistearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride, Cetearyl Alcohol
Usage guide · % w/w
1–10% of the blend in the cited supplier guide.
Solubility / dispersion
Hot-water dispersible; melts on heating
Phase & incorporation
Heated oil phase. Process at the grade’s specified hot-phase conditions, approximately 75–85°C, then cool with appropriate mixing.
pH considerations
Supplier target: pH 4–4.5; hydrolysis can become a concern above pH 5.
Formulation considerations

Control pH after all additions and check it during storage. Further fatty alcohol can increase body. Avoid untested combinations with anionic polymers or surfactants.

Often formulated alongside

Cetyl or cetearyl alcohol and compatible emollients in hair conditioners.

Hair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Varisoft® EQ 65 ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Ferulic acid

Phenolic antioxidant active

A phenolic antioxidant used in selected skincare systems. Solubility is often the main development challenge, especially in clear aqueous serums.

INCI / material identityFerulic Acid
Usage guide · % w/w
0.5–1% in the cited supplier guide.
Solubility / dispersion
Soluble in selected solvents; limited simple-water solubility
Phase & incorporation
Solvent premix. Prepare a suitable solvent premix and confirm that dilution into the full formula does not cause precipitation.
pH considerations
pH affects solubility and stability; choose a validated target for the complete antioxidant system.
Formulation considerations

A milky dispersion is not a clear solution. Watch for crystals after cold storage. Combining antioxidants can be useful, but any stability or efficacy claim needs formulation-specific support.

Often formulated alongside

Ascorbic acid in a designed system; suitable glycols or other verified solvents.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotions
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Ferulic Acid ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Gluconolactone

Polyhydroxy-acid precursor · humectant

A water-soluble lactone that gradually forms gluconic acid in water. It is used for hydration, pH effects and PHA-oriented cosmetic concepts.

INCI / material identityGluconolactone
Usage guide · % w/w
0.1–5% of the referenced powder.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Dissolve in water and allow the system to equilibrate before making final pH decisions.
pH considerations
pH decreases over time as hydrolysis proceeds; the reference notes a gradual change over about an hour in a test solution.
Formulation considerations

Recheck pH after manufacture and during stability testing. Gluconolactone alone is not the same material as a gluconolactone/sodium benzoate preservation blend.

Often formulated alongside

Glycerin, acid-tolerant rheology modifiers and a compatible buffer where needed.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotionsCleansers & wash products
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Glucono Delta Lactone (GDL) ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Gluconolactone & sodium benzoate

Preservative blend · NeoDefend reference

A powder blend that combines an organic-acid preservation component with a lactone. The finished pH can continue changing after the batch is made.

INCI / material identityGluconolactone, Sodium Benzoate
Usage guide · % w/w
0.75–1.5% of the cited blend. Check total benzoate contributions and grade composition.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Dissolve fully in the aqueous phase or a reserved water portion before addition to an existing emulsion.
pH considerations
Referenced working range: pH 3–6; monitor downward drift over time.
Formulation considerations

A buffer may be needed, but its concentration must suit the complete formula and polymer tolerance. This blend is not pure gluconolactone and requires its own preservation validation.

Often formulated alongside

A designed citrate buffer where needed; compatible humectants and emulsifiers.

Creams & lotionsSerums & tonersCleansers & wash productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — NeoDefend™ ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Glycerin

Humectant · solvent

A clear, viscous liquid that helps retain water in the outer skin layers. It is a useful foundation for moisturising creams, cleansing products and water-based serums.

INCI / material identityGlycerin
Usage guide · % w/w
2–5% of the supplied glycerin. Higher levels change tack and sensory feel.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Mix into the aqueous phase. It can also wet gums before hydration; this disperses the powder but does not dissolve it.
pH considerations
No single finished-product target is imposed by glycerin; choose the range required by the whole formula.
Formulation considerations

Balance hydration against stickiness. Glycerin at normal cosmetic levels does not replace a preservative, and it will not make essential oils dissolve in water.

Often formulated alongside

Panthenol and sodium PCA for hydration; oils and squalane for a softer after-feel.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotionsCleansers & wash productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Glycerin, Vegetable ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Glyceryl stearate & PEG-100 stearate

Oil-in-water emulsifier blend

A non-ionic emulsifier combination used to make smooth emulsions while allowing considerable control over viscosity through separate structuring ingredients.

INCI / material identityGlyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate
Usage guide · % w/w
1–5% of the cited Lotionpro 165 grade; supplier suggests 4% as an initial trial.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil-phase compatible when melted
Phase & incorporation
Heated oil phase. Melt with the oil phase and emulsify with the water phase at a suitable matching temperature.
pH considerations
Check the selected grade’s stability data and the finished system’s pH.
Formulation considerations

This blend is not pure glyceryl stearate and should not be treated as such. It may need fatty alcohols or aqueous thickeners to achieve the desired body.

Often formulated alongside

Cetyl alcohol, xanthan gum and a balanced oil blend.

Creams & lotionsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Lotionpro™ 165 ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Glyceryl stearate lactylate emulsifier blend

Anionic oil-in-water emulsifier blend

A lactylate-based emulsifying blend that gives creams a conditioned, powdery after-feel. The cited ECOMulse grade combines emulsification and body.

INCI / material identityGlyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
Usage guide · % w/w
2–10% of the blend; the supplier commonly suggests about 8%.
Solubility / dispersion
Disperses in the hot oil phase
Phase & incorporation
Heated oil phase. Melt in the oil phase. Add acidic cool-down ingredients after the emulsion forms, then check final pH.
pH considerations
Referenced finished-product range: pH 5–7.5.
Formulation considerations

The cited system is intended for oil phases up to about 25%. Its anionic character requires care with cationic conditioners; do not assume mutual compatibility.

Often formulated alongside

Botanical oils, humectants and compatible non-ionic structure builders.

Creams & lotions
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — ECOMulse™ ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Green tea extract

Botanical skin conditioner

A leaf extract used in botanical skincare concepts. The extraction solvent and marker content determine what is actually delivered by a given percentage.

INCI / material identityGlycerin, Aqua, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract — preserved liquid grade
Usage guide · % w/w
1–5% of the referenced glycerin/water extract.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Cool-down. Add during emulsion cool-down or to the aqueous phase in a cold process.
pH considerations
The cited liquid is around pH 4.4; this is not a universal finished-product target.
Formulation considerations

It can add brown colour and odour. The cited grade contains benzoate/sorbate preservatives. It is not equivalent to pure EGCG, a tea infusion or a dry extract.

Often formulated alongside

Glycerin, niacinamide and compatible emulsion systems.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotionsCleansers & wash products
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Green Tea Extract ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Hemisqualane

Light emollient · spreading agent

A low-viscosity hydrocarbon used to give dry oils, hair products and emulsions a lighter, more spreading feel. The cited commercial grade is fermentation-derived.

INCI / material identityC13-15 Alkane
Usage guide · % w/w
1–60% of the referenced material; choose the level for the product’s sensory target.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil soluble; water insoluble
Phase & incorporation
Oil phase. Blend with compatible oils. Follow the grade’s handling and temperature guidance when heating.
pH considerations
Neat material has no aqueous pH.
Formulation considerations

It can reduce the heavy feel of richer oils, but it is not a universal replacement for every silicone. Recheck viscosity, package compatibility and evaporation behaviour.

Often formulated alongside

Squalane, dimethicone where compatible, and botanical oils.

Creams & lotionsFacial & body oilsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Neossance™ Hemisqualane ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Hydrolysed rice protein

Protein-derived film former · hair conditioner

A liquid containing smaller rice-protein fragments, used to support conditioned feel and film formation. It can be used in both hair and skin products.

INCI / material identityHydrolyzed Rice Protein — supplied preserved liquid
Usage guide · % w/w
2–5% of the referenced supplied liquid; this is not a dry-protein percentage.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Cool-down. Add below 40°C after an emulsion has formed, or to the aqueous phase of a suitable cold process.
pH considerations
Use the grade’s stability information and the final preservation requirements.
Formulation considerations

Protein solids, molecular-weight profile and preservatives vary by supplier. The cited grade contains benzyl alcohol, potassium sorbate and sodium benzoate. Electrolytes may thin sensitive gels.

Often formulated alongside

Panthenol and compatible conditioners or shampoo systems.

Hair & scalp careCreams & lotionsSerums & toners
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Hydrolyzed Rice Protein ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Non-ionic cellulose thickener

A cellulose-derived polymer used to make aqueous gels and thicken cleansers or emulsions. Hydration speed and final viscosity depend strongly on the grade.

INCI / material identityHydroxyethylcellulose
Usage guide · % w/w
0.1–3% of the referenced Natrosol grade.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble after hydration
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Disperse into near-neutral water and allow hydration. The cited grade hydrates more quickly with gentle warming around 28–30°C.
pH considerations
Water pH influences hydration time; adjust the final formula after the polymer has hydrated.
Formulation considerations

Too much heat or an unsuitable initial pH can promote lumps. Viscosity values for one HEC grade cannot be transferred to another without checking the specification.

Often formulated alongside

Glycerin, suitable surfactants and compatible cationic systems after trials.

Serums & tonersCleansers & wash productsCreams & lotionsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose

Non-ionic cellulose thickener · film former

A cellulose ether used for body and film formation in water-containing products. Different substitution and viscosity grades have different processing requirements.

INCI / material identityHydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Usage guide · % w/w
0.5–3% for the referenced Benecel E10M grade.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble after correct hydration
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Use the grade-specific dispersion and hydration method. Add to the aqueous phase and allow viscosity to develop.
pH considerations
Confirm grade stability; the supplier’s pH 5–8 test specification is not a universal formulation limit.
Formulation considerations

Hydration and thermal behaviour vary between grades. A polymer that looks dispersed may still be incompletely hydrated; recheck viscosity after equilibration.

Often formulated alongside

Humectants and compatible surfactants; other polymers when a blended texture is needed.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotionsCleansers & wash productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose (HPMC) ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Isopropyl myristate

Ester emollient · spreading agent

A light ester used to improve spreading and reduce the heavy, greasy character of richer oil phases. It also acts as a solvent for selected oil-compatible materials.

INCI / material identityIsopropyl Myristate
Usage guide · % w/w
1–10% of the supplied ester.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil soluble; water insoluble
Phase & incorporation
Oil phase. Blend with the oil phase or anhydrous oils before filling.
pH considerations
No aqueous pH applies to the neat material.
Formulation considerations

Its solvent behaviour may affect packaging and other ingredients. Evaluate the intended skin feel and formula tolerance instead of applying universal pore-clogging scores.

Often formulated alongside

Castor oil or butters to lighten feel; suitable oil-phase actives.

Creams & lotionsFacial & body oilsBalms & solid products
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — IPM MB (Isopropyl Myristate) ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Jojoba oil

Emollient · liquid wax

A liquid wax ester often grouped with botanical oils. It gives slip and a cushioned feel to facial oils, lip products and emulsion oil phases.

INCI / material identitySimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Usage guide · % w/w
1–25% is the supplier’s typical range; anhydrous oils may use up to 100%.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil soluble; water insoluble
Phase & incorporation
Oil phase. Add to the oil phase or cold-blend into an anhydrous product.
pH considerations
No aqueous pH applies to the neat oil.
Formulation considerations

Clear and golden grades differ in colour and processing. Jojoba can cloud or solidify when cold, so assess the chosen grade in the intended storage conditions.

Often formulated alongside

Squalane for lighter oils; shea butter and waxes in balms.

Creams & lotionsFacial & body oilsBalms & solid productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Jojoba Oil, Clear ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Lactic acid

Acidifier · AHA ingredient

An alpha-hydroxy acid used for pH adjustment or in separately designed exfoliating products. The referenced liquid is a 90% concentrate.

INCI / material identityLactic Acid
Usage guide · % w/w
For pH adjustment: q.s. to the measured target. Acid-active products require a separate concentration and tolerance assessment.
Solubility / dispersion
Water miscible
Phase & incorporation
Final adjustment. Use a controlled, known-concentration dilution following the SDS. Mix completely before measuring pH again.
pH considerations
Lowers pH; both pH and total acid content determine the behaviour of an AHA product.
Formulation considerations

A 1% addition of a 90% raw material contributes about 0.9% lactic acid before neutralisation. Do not substitute a diluted grade without adjusting the batch calculation.

Often formulated alongside

Compatible buffers, humectants and acid-tolerant thickeners.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotionsCleansers & wash productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Lactic Acid 90% ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Liquorice root extract

Botanical skin conditioner

A botanical root extract used in even-tone and comfort-oriented skincare concepts. Water-soluble and oil-soluble liquorice fractions are different raw materials.

INCI / material identityGlycerin, Aqua, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate
Usage guide · % w/w
2–5% of the cited glycerin/water extract.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Cool-down. Add at 40°C or below during cool-down, or mix with the aqueous phase in a cold process.
pH considerations
Confirm compatibility with the complete formula and the extract’s preservation system.
Formulation considerations

This liquid is not a standardised pure glabridin or dipotassium glycyrrhizate ingredient. Avoid transferring evidence or use levels between these distinct materials.

Often formulated alongside

Niacinamide, panthenol and water-compatible humectants.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotions
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Licorice Root Extract ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate

Water-soluble vitamin C derivative

A vitamin C derivative used in skin-conditioning and even-tone formulations. It has different solubility and pH requirements from free ascorbic acid.

INCI / material identityMagnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Usage guide · % w/w
0.2–3% is the source’s typical range; higher levels need additional solubility and stability work.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble within grade limits
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Dissolve in water; gentle warming can help. Allow enough water for full dissolution before incorporating into an emulsion.
pH considerations
The reference recommends pH 6–7; discolouration may develop below pH 6.
Formulation considerations

Its electrolyte load can weaken salt-sensitive gels. Do not reuse a low-pH ascorbic-acid recipe by simply exchanging the vitamin C ingredient.

Often formulated alongside

Compatible humectants, an appropriate emulsifier and salt-tolerant thickening.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotions
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Mandelic acid

Alpha-hydroxy acid · exfoliating active

An AHA used in exfoliating cosmetic concepts. The amount of free acid depends on both concentration and pH, so percentage alone does not describe the product’s strength.

INCI / material identityMandelic Acid
Usage guide · % w/w
Supplier formulation range: 1–10% powder; select within a separately assessed acid-product design.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Dissolve completely, incorporate uniformly and measure final pH with a suitable calibrated method.
pH considerations
The source works around pH 3–4. Increasing pH progressively shifts the acid towards its salt form.
Formulation considerations

Assess irritation potential, contact time, packaging and directions for the finished product. Do not use an ingredient range as a ready-made peel recipe.

Often formulated alongside

Glycerin and an acid-tolerant thickener; a preservative validated at the final pH.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotions
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Mandelic Acid ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Mango butter

Solid emollient · texture builder

A seed butter used to give creams and anhydrous products body with a relatively restrained odour in refined grades.

INCI / material identityMangifera Indica Seed Butter
Usage guide · % w/w
Illustrative: 1–10% in creams; 5–40% in anhydrous balms or body butters.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil soluble when melted
Phase & incorporation
Heated oil phase. Melt fully before emulsification or blending. Keep the cooling process consistent between batches.
pH considerations
No aqueous pH applies to the neat butter.
Formulation considerations

Changing the butter-to-liquid-oil ratio alters firmness and melting behaviour. Test the formula across likely storage temperatures rather than substituting butter one-for-one.

Often formulated alongside

Caprylic/capric triglyceride, shea butter and waxes.

Creams & lotionsBalms & solid productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Mango Butter ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Meadowfoam seed oil

Botanical emollient · sensory modifier

An oil characterised by long-chain fatty acids and good oxidative stability relative to many more polyunsaturated oils. It contributes a smooth, cushioned skin feel.

INCI / material identityLimnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Usage guide · % w/w
Illustrative: 1–10% in emulsions; higher levels in facial or body oils.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil soluble; water insoluble
Phase & incorporation
Oil phase. Combine with the oil phase or cold-blend into an anhydrous formula.
pH considerations
No aqueous pH applies to the neat oil.
Formulation considerations

A stable oil does not make the entire formula oxidation-proof. Evaluate the blend, fragrance, package and storage conditions together.

Often formulated alongside

Squalane, jojoba oil and richer butters.

Creams & lotionsFacial & body oilsBalms & solid productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Meadowfoam XPR (Expeller Pressed) ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Montanov 68

Oil-in-water emulsifier blend

A non-ionic glucoside and fatty-alcohol system used in lotions and creams. It builds both emulsification and structure into the oil phase.

INCI / material identityCetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside
Usage guide · % w/w
1–5% of the supplied blend.
Solubility / dispersion
Disperses through a heated oil phase
Phase & incorporation
Heated oil phase. Melt with oils at about 75°C. Emulsify with a heated water phase, then reduce shear during cooling.
pH considerations
Supplier compatibility window: pH 3–12; the finished formula may have tighter limits.
Formulation considerations

Cooling and mixing affect the final texture. Do not assess the final viscosity while hot or assume every glucoside emulsifier is interchangeable.

Often formulated alongside

Botanical oils, glycerin and additional fatty alcohol where needed.

Creams & lotionsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Montanov™ 68 MB ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

N-acetyl glucosamine

Skin-conditioning amino sugar

A water-soluble amino sugar used in hydration and even-tone cosmetic concepts. It is frequently discussed alongside niacinamide in formulation development.

INCI / material identityAcetyl Glucosamine
Usage guide · % w/w
1–4% of the referenced powder.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Cool-down. Dissolve in water and add below 50°C according to the supplier guidance.
pH considerations
Check the raw-material stability information and choose a compatible finished-product pH.
Formulation considerations

The referenced grade is crustacean-derived and is not vegan. Other manufacturing routes exist; verify origin before making claims. High concentration can change clarity and colour.

Often formulated alongside

Niacinamide in compatible systems; glycerin and panthenol.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotions
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — N-Acetyl Glucosamine (NAG) ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Niacinamide

Skin-conditioning active

A form of vitamin B3 used in cosmetic products for hydration, skin-barrier support and a more even-looking complexion. It dissolves readily in water.

INCI / material identityNiacinamide
Usage guide · % w/w
1–6% powder in the cited supplier guide.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Dissolve into the aqueous phase or a reserved portion of water, then combine thoroughly.
pH considerations
The reference recommends a finished pH around 6. Avoid prolonged exposure to strongly acidic processing conditions.
Formulation considerations

Consider the entire formula’s heat and pH history rather than applying blanket ingredient incompatibility rules. More niacinamide does not automatically give a better-tolerated product.

Often formulated alongside

N-acetyl glucosamine, glycerin and panthenol in appropriately designed formulas.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotions
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Vitamin B3, Niacinamide ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Olivem 1000

Oil-in-water emulsifier blend

An olive-derived emulsifier system used to create creams and lotions with a structured, cushioned feel. Its behaviour depends on the oil phase and supporting thickeners.

INCI / material identityCetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate
Usage guide · % w/w
Referenced guide: 3–4% for lower-viscosity emulsions; 7–8% for richer creams.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil-phase dispersible; melts on heating
Phase & incorporation
Heated oil phase. Heat the oil phase to about 80°C to melt fully, then emulsify with a suitably heated water phase.
pH considerations
Supplier compatibility window: pH 3–12; use a narrower final target suited to the actual product.
Formulation considerations

The cited oil-phase guide is around 25% maximum including emulsifier. A small amount of xanthan gum can improve stability. Confirm rub-out, viscosity and long-term separation.

Often formulated alongside

Xanthan gum for aqueous support; cetyl or cetearyl alcohol for extra body.

Creams & lotionsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Olivem® 1000 MB ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Panthenol

Humectant · skin and hair conditioner

Also called provitamin B5, panthenol helps give skin and hair a moisturised, conditioned feel. It is available in liquid and powder grades with different compositions.

INCI / material identityPanthenol
Usage guide · % w/w
Referenced liquid grade: 0.1–2% in leave-on products; 1–5% in rinse-off products.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Blend into the aqueous phase; cool-down addition is convenient where the process allows. Verify the assay of the grade purchased.
pH considerations
Choose a finished pH compatible with the selected grade and the other ingredients.
Formulation considerations

Liquid panthenol may be supplied neat or diluted. Do not assume every liquid is a 75% solution. Count actual panthenol content before substituting grades.

Often formulated alongside

Glycerin and sodium hyaluronate for skin; hydrolysed rice protein in hair care.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotionsHair & scalp careCleansers & wash products
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — d-Panthenol, Liquid ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides

Mild cleansing aid · refatting agent

A water-compatible surfactant/emollient used in micellar-style cleansers and cleansing blends. It can help remove oils while leaving a less stripped skin feel.

INCI / material identityPEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides
Usage guide · % w/w
0.5–5% of the supplied material.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble; oil compatibility varies
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Add during heating or cool-down. For solubilisation, premix with the oil and determine the required ratio experimentally.
pH considerations
Choose pH for the complete cleansing and preservation system.
Formulation considerations

It is not a replacement for every primary foaming surfactant. The amount needed for clear solubilisation varies with the oil; some mixtures remain dispersions.

Often formulated alongside

Water-phase humectants; primary surfactants in rinse-off cleansing products.

Cleansers & wash productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — SurfPro™ CC-6 ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Phenoxyethanol

Antimicrobial preservative component

A preservative ingredient used in many water-containing cosmetics, often alongside a booster or a complementary antifungal component.

INCI / material identityPhenoxyethanol
Usage guide · % w/w
0.25–1% in the source guide. Count phenoxyethanol entering from every blend and extract.
Solubility / dispersion
Limited water solubility; soluble in suitable glycols
Phase & incorporation
Cool-down. Distribute uniformly through the formula using a compatible phase or premix. Verify full incorporation.
pH considerations
Works across many cosmetic pH conditions, but final effectiveness depends on the whole formula.
Formulation considerations

A percentage within a supplier range does not prove broad-spectrum protection. Confirm applicable permitted levels and demonstrate preservation effectiveness in the finished product and packaging.

Often formulated alongside

A validated booster or antifungal partner; compatible chelation.

Creams & lotionsSerums & tonersCleansers & wash productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Phenoxyethanol ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Phenoxyethanol & caprylyl glycol

Preservative blend · Optiphen reference

A preservative system combining phenoxyethanol and a multifunctional glycol. Product composition and the emulsion structure influence how well it performs.

INCI / material identityPhenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol
Usage guide · % w/w
0.5–1% is an initial screening range within the supplier’s broader guide; check the blend assay and total actives.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil/glycol compatible; water solubility limited
Phase & incorporation
Cool-down. The cited guide permits addition at or below 60°C. Mix well and reassess emulsion viscosity after addition.
pH considerations
The source recommends pH 4–8.
Formulation considerations

Do not treat all Optiphen-named products as equivalent. Preservation efficacy and any viscosity changes need testing in the actual formula. Observe market-specific limits for each active component.

Often formulated alongside

Compatible emulsions, aqueous solvents and suitable chelation.

Creams & lotionsSerums & tonersCleansers & wash productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — optiphen™ preservative ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Phenoxyethanol & ethylhexylglycerin

Preservative blend · 90:10 reference grade

A common preservation system combining phenoxyethanol with a multifunctional booster. This profile refers specifically to the cited 90:10 blend.

INCI / material identityPhenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Usage guide · % w/w
0.5–1% of the blend in the referenced guide. A 1% addition supplies about 0.9% phenoxyethanol.
Solubility / dispersion
Limited water solubility; glycol compatible
Phase & incorporation
Cool-down. Add with thorough mixing during cool-down. Check solubility in low-solvent aqueous products.
pH considerations
Supplier working range: pH 3–12; confirm efficacy at the actual final pH.
Formulation considerations

High levels of ethoxylated surfactants can reduce performance. Check total preservative content from all raw materials and validate the finished product by an appropriate preservation test.

Often formulated alongside

Compatible chelators and formulation solvents such as propanediol.

Creams & lotionsSerums & tonersCleansers & wash productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Lotioncrafter® PE 9010 ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol & sorbic acid

Preservative blend · Optiphen Plus reference

A preservation system with a sorbic-acid component, suited to appropriately acidic formulations. It differs from the two-component Optiphen blend.

INCI / material identityPhenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbic Acid
Usage guide · % w/w
0.75–1% is an initial screening range within the source’s broader guide; determine the final dose by assay and efficacy testing.
Solubility / dispersion
Blend-dependent dispersibility; incorporate uniformly
Phase & incorporation
Cool-down. Follow the selected grade’s incorporation instructions and check homogeneity after cooling.
pH considerations
The cited supplier describes best performance below pH 6.
Formulation considerations

Higher pH reduces the contribution of sorbic acid. Count all preservative actives across the formula and verify allowable levels. A blend name is not proof of adequate preservation.

Often formulated alongside

Acid-compatible emulsions, humectants and suitable chelators.

Creams & lotionsSerums & tonersCleansers & wash productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — optiphen™ plus preservative ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Polyquaternium-7

Cationic conditioning polymer

A conditioning polymer used in shampoos and cleansers to improve slip and the feel after rinsing. It is designed for use in many surfactant systems.

INCI / material identityPolyquaternium-7 — supplied aqueous grade
Usage guide · % w/w
0.05–10% of the cited liquid grade; confirm solids content before substituting another supply.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Blend into the water or surfactant phase with controlled mixing and assess clarity.
pH considerations
The cited raw material has pH 3–5. Check final formula requirements separately.
Formulation considerations

Grades differ in polymer solids and viscosity. The reference contains sodium benzoate, which enters the finished formula. Compatibility with a surfactant class does not guarantee clarity in every blend.

Often formulated alongside

Cocamidopropyl betaine and appropriate anionic shampoo surfactants.

Hair & scalp careCleansers & wash products
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Polyquaternium 7 ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Polysorbate 20

Solubiliser · high-HLB emulsifier

A non-ionic surfactant often used to disperse small fragrance or oil loads in water-based products. It can also support a blended emulsifier system.

INCI / material identityPolysorbate 20
Usage guide · % w/w
Supplier range: 1–20%; the actual amount depends on the oil and required clarity.
Solubility / dispersion
Water dispersible / soluble
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Premix with the oil or fragrance where appropriate, then add gradually to water and assess the result.
pH considerations
Choose a pH compatible with the entire formula and the supplied grade.
Formulation considerations

There is no universal oil-to-solubiliser ratio. A clear mixture on day one may haze or separate later. Solubilising fragrance does not preserve the water phase.

Often formulated alongside

Small fragrance loads; sorbitan esters in designed emulsifier blends.

Serums & tonersCleansers & wash productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Polysorbate 20 ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Polysorbate 80

Solubiliser · emulsifying surfactant

A non-ionic surfactant used to help disperse oils and support oil-in-water emulsification. Its fatty-acid structure gives different behaviour from Polysorbate 20.

INCI / material identityPolysorbate 80
Usage guide · % w/w
1–20% in the supplier guide; optimise against the actual oil load.
Solubility / dispersion
Water dispersible / soluble
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Combine with the intended oil or emulsifier system and evaluate dispersion before scaling.
pH considerations
Confirm compatibility with the chosen finished-product pH.
Formulation considerations

A simple substitution for Polysorbate 20 may change clarity, feel and foam. Oxidation quality and interactions with preservatives can matter in long-term storage.

Often formulated alongside

Sorbitan stearate in balanced emulsifiers; carrier oils in dispersible bath products.

Cleansers & wash productsCreams & lotionsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Polysorbate 80 ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Potassium sorbate

Acid-dependent antifungal preservative component

A water-soluble salt of sorbic acid used mainly to support yeast and mould control. It should not be assumed to provide complete bacterial coverage on its own.

INCI / material identityPotassium Sorbate
Usage guide · % w/w
0.1–0.5% of the salt in the cited guide; check any acid-equivalent restrictions.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Cool-down. Pre-dissolve in a reserved water portion and add below 60°C according to the referenced guidance.
pH considerations
The supplier recommends a finished pH of 5 or below.
Formulation considerations

A pH drift upwards can weaken effectiveness. Count sorbate from other raw materials and validate a complete preservation system against relevant organisms.

Often formulated alongside

Sodium benzoate or another appropriate bacterial-control partner; compatible buffering.

Creams & lotionsSerums & tonersCleansers & wash productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Potassium Sorbate ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Propanediol

Humectant · solvent

A low-viscosity diol used to carry selected ingredients and contribute a smooth, hydrated skin feel. Its solvent behaviour differs from propylene glycol.

INCI / material identityPropanediol
Usage guide · % w/w
1–10% of the supplied material is a useful supplier reference range.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Blend into the water phase or use as a suitable premix solvent after checking the solubility of the target ingredient.
pH considerations
Select finished pH around the actives, preservative and thickener; a neutral raw material does not set it.
Formulation considerations

Can support some preservation systems, but does not independently establish microbial protection. Increasing the solvent load can alter viscosity and preservative partitioning.

Often formulated alongside

Glycerin for humectancy; compatible preservative blends for a complete tested system.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotionsCleansers & wash productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Propanediol 1,3 ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Propylene glycol

Humectant · solvent

A widely used water-miscible solvent and humectant. It can help incorporate materials with limited water solubility when the full solvent system is suitable.

INCI / material identityPropylene Glycol
Usage guide · % w/w
1–20% is the cited supplier range; select the lowest level that delivers the required function.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Incorporate into water or use in a verified solvent premix. Check clarity again after the complete formula is assembled.
pH considerations
Choose pH for the finished system; glycol content alone is not a pH specification.
Formulation considerations

High solvent levels can change skin feel and tolerance. It is a different chemical from propanediol and should not be swapped without checking performance.

Often formulated alongside

Ferulic acid in an appropriate solvent system; glycerin in hydration blends.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotionsCleansers & wash productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Propylene Glycol ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Resveratrol

Polyphenol antioxidant active

A polyphenolic ingredient used in antioxidant skincare concepts. Its poor water solubility makes solvent selection and crystallisation checks especially important.

INCI / material identityResveratrol
Usage guide · % w/w
0.2–1% of the referenced powder.
Solubility / dispersion
Poor water solubility; soluble in selected solvents
Phase & incorporation
Solvent premix. Use a verified solvent route and incorporate in cool-down. A glycol dispersion should not be described as a dissolved solution without confirmation.
pH considerations
Assess the selected grade’s stability at the finished formula’s pH.
Formulation considerations

Protect from light and evaluate both chemical stability and particle formation. Loading a raw powder into a water serum without a suitable carrier may create uneven distribution.

Often formulated alongside

Suitable glycols or other verified solvents; compatible antioxidant systems.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotions
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Resveratrol Pure ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Rice bran oil

Botanical emollient

An oil from the outer layer of rice grain, used to add richness to creams and body products. Processing determines colour, odour and low-temperature clarity.

INCI / material identityOryza Sativa Bran Oil
Usage guide · % w/w
Illustrative: 1–15% in emulsions; higher proportions in oil products.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil soluble; water insoluble
Phase & incorporation
Oil phase. Incorporate with the other oils. Warm only as necessary for the chosen formulation.
pH considerations
No aqueous pH applies to the neat oil.
Formulation considerations

The referenced grade is dewaxed but not winterised and may become hazy in the cold. This can be a physical change rather than evidence of microbial spoilage.

Often formulated alongside

Sunflower oil, light esters and tocopherol.

Creams & lotionsFacial & body oilsBalms & solid products
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Rice Bran Oil ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Rosehip seed oil

Botanical emollient

An unsaturated seed oil used in facial oils and creams. Its natural yellow-orange colour can influence the shade of the finished product.

INCI / material identityRosa Canina Seed Oil / Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil, depending on botanical grade
Usage guide · % w/w
5–10% is a typical supplier reference level; higher levels occur in anhydrous blends.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil soluble; water insoluble
Phase & incorporation
Oil phase. Limit heat and oxygen exposure. In emulsions, choose an addition stage that still achieves proper emulsification.
pH considerations
No aqueous pH applies to the neat oil.
Formulation considerations

Confirm the botanical species and its precise INCI. Oxidation management matters; monitor odour and peroxide specification. Antioxidants do not replace antimicrobial preservation.

Often formulated alongside

Squalane and jojoba oil; tocopherol or rosemary antioxidant extract.

Creams & lotionsFacial & body oilsBalms & solid products
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Rosehip Seed Oil, Unrefined ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Rosemary antioxidant extract

Oil-phase antioxidant blend

A concentrated rosemary extract used to slow oil oxidation. This profile refers to an oil-soluble oleoresin grade, not rosemary essential oil or a water extract.

INCI / material identityRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Tocopherol
Usage guide · % w/w
0.02–0.1% of the cited grade containing at least 7% carnosic acid.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil soluble; water insoluble
Phase & incorporation
Oil phase. Preblend accurately into part of the oil phase, then mix evenly into the remainder.
pH considerations
No aqueous pH applies to this oil-based material.
Formulation considerations

Extract strength varies substantially between suppliers. Check colour and odour impact, and weigh accurately at low levels. It does not provide a water-containing product’s antimicrobial preservation.

Often formulated alongside

Rosehip and other oxidation-prone oils; mixed tocopherols.

Facial & body oilsCreams & lotionsBalms & solid productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Rosemary Oleoresin (ROE) ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Sepimax ZEN

Anionic thickener · suspension stabiliser

A pre-neutralised powder polymer used in gels, cleansers and gel-creams. It generally tolerates electrolytes better than some other acrylic gel formers.

INCI / material identityPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Usage guide · % w/w
0.5–5% as a thickener/stabiliser; the source lists suspension effects from about 0.15%.
Solubility / dispersion
Hydrates in water
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Disperse gradually and allow full hydration, or use the supplier’s controlled-mixing process.
pH considerations
Referenced stability range: pH 2–8.
Formulation considerations

Its electrolyte tolerance is finite and formulation-dependent. As an anionic polymer it is generally unsuitable with cationic ingredients. Large oil loads need separate stability work.

Often formulated alongside

Glycerin, selected acidic actives and compatible anionic or non-ionic cleansers.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotionsCleansers & wash products
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Sepimax Zen™ ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Sepinov EMT 10

Polymeric thickener · emulsion stabiliser

A powder polymer that can build soft gels and support gel-cream textures. It works in hot or cold processes when incorporated correctly.

INCI / material identityHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Usage guide · % w/w
0.5–5% of the supplied polymer.
Solubility / dispersion
Disperses and hydrates in water
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. For aqueous gels, disperse into water under mixing. For cream-gels, follow the specified oil-phase dispersion route.
pH considerations
Referenced stability range: pH 3–10.
Formulation considerations

Salts, cationics, solvents and the oil load can change performance. Process order matters; stabilising a small oil phase does not prove stability at a larger scale.

Often formulated alongside

Non-ionic emulsifiers, suitable emollients and compatible humectants.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotions
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Sepinov™ EMT 10 ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Shea butter

Solid emollient · body builder

A semi-solid fat used to build richness and cushion in creams, body butters and balms. Refined and unrefined grades differ in colour and odour.

INCI / material identityButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Usage guide · % w/w
Illustrative: 1–10% in creams; 10–50% or more in anhydrous body products.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil soluble when melted
Phase & incorporation
Heated oil phase. Melt fully with the oil phase and control cooling to achieve the required crystal structure.
pH considerations
No aqueous pH applies to the neat butter.
Formulation considerations

Poor cooling or temperature cycling can produce graininess. Check texture after storage, not just immediately after manufacture; assess pumpability for emulsions.

Often formulated alongside

Liquid oils to soften texture; waxes or fatty alcohols to build structure.

Creams & lotionsBalms & solid productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Shea Butter, Refined ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Sodium benzoate

Acid-dependent preservative component

The water-soluble salt of benzoic acid. Its preservative contribution increases in acidic conditions because more of the effective acid form is present.

INCI / material identitySodium Benzoate
Usage guide · % w/w
Illustrative starting range: 0.1–0.5% of the salt. Permitted levels may be expressed as benzoic-acid equivalent.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Cool-down. Dissolve in water and incorporate uniformly; the cited guide recommends at or below 60°C.
pH considerations
Strongly pH-dependent; performance falls as pH rises. Use a system specifically validated at the product’s final pH.
Formulation considerations

Usually needs complementary antimicrobial coverage. Avoid combining with ascorbic-acid systems without specialist assessment. Count benzoate carried in extracts, polymers and other blends.

Often formulated alongside

Potassium sorbate in a designed acidic system; compatible chelation.

Creams & lotionsSerums & tonersCleansers & wash productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Sodium Benzoate ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Sodium carbomer

Pre-neutralised synthetic gel former

A ready-neutralised acrylic polymer that thickens aqueous systems without the initial neutralisation step needed by many carbomer powders.

INCI / material identitySodium Carbomer
Usage guide · % w/w
0.2–0.5% of the referenced powder.
Solubility / dispersion
Swells in water
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Sprinkle slowly into water with mixing. Avoid dumping the powder into the vessel, which can trap dry material inside lumps.
pH considerations
A 0.5% gel is around pH 7 in the source. Strong acidification and salts can reduce viscosity.
Formulation considerations

Do not confuse sodium carbomer with an unneutralised carbomer grade. Electrolytes and cationic ingredients may destabilise the gel; check the final blend.

Often formulated alongside

Low-electrolyte humectants and suitable non-ionic ingredients.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotions
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Sodium Carbomer, Preneutralized ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Sodium citrate

Buffer salt · pH-control aid

A citrate salt used with citric acid to help resist pH change. It is useful where raw materials or storage can cause gradual pH drift.

INCI / material identitySodium Citrate
Usage guide · % w/w
0.1–1% is the supplier’s typical reference range; buffer design remains formulation-specific.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Dissolve in water and combine with the appropriate acid component. Adjust and verify the equilibrated finished pH.
pH considerations
A buffer’s target and capacity depend on the acid-to-salt ratio and total concentration.
Formulation considerations

Simply adding citrate does not lock any formula at a fixed pH. Its electrolyte contribution can change viscosity, especially in salt-sensitive polymer gels.

Often formulated alongside

Citric acid; selected gluconolactone-containing systems after compatibility work.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotionsCleansers & wash productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Sodium Citrate ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Sodium cocoyl apple amino acids

Amino-acid-derived anionic surfactant

A liquid surfactant based on acylated apple amino acids. It contributes cleansing and foam in face, body and hair products.

INCI / material identitySodium Cocoyl Apple Amino Acids
Usage guide · % w/w
1–25% of the cited Foaming Apple liquid grade.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Blend into the water/surfactant phase using gentle mixing to minimise entrained air.
pH considerations
Supplied grade pH: 6.5–7.5. Confirm final pH and stability after adjustment.
Formulation considerations

The supplier reports 29–34% dry extract; dry solids should not automatically be treated as an exact active-surfactant assay. Check the specification before calculating active matter.

Often formulated alongside

Cocamidopropyl betaine, coco-glucoside and water-phase humectants.

Cleansers & wash productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Foaming Apple ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Sodium cocoyl isethionate

Anionic solid cleansing surfactant

A solid surfactant used for creamy foam in syndet bars and selected paste or cream cleansers. The referenced powder is at least 82% active.

INCI / material identitySodium Cocoyl Isethionate
Usage guide · % w/w
2–53% of the cited powder, according to product format.
Solubility / dispersion
Poorly water soluble; incorporates into suitable surfactant blends
Phase & incorporation
Surfactant phase. Mix into a designed surfactant phase, often with an amphoteric partner. Control dust when handling the powder.
pH considerations
Reference pH of a 10% test dispersion: 4–6; verify the finished product separately.
Formulation considerations

Limited water solubility makes clear liquid cleansers difficult and can cause recrystallisation. Distinguish powder from noodles or blends with added fatty acids.

Often formulated alongside

Cocamidopropyl betaine and suitable binders or fatty structurants in syndet bars.

Cleansers & wash productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — SurfPro™ SCI ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Sodium hyaluronate

Humectant · film former

The sodium salt commonly sold as hyaluronic acid. High molecular weight powder builds a hydrated surface film and can add body to water-based serums.

INCI / material identitySodium Hyaluronate
Usage guide · % w/w
0.01–1% powder; the referenced grade is 1.0–1.5 MDa.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble; requires hydration
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Sprinkle into water or pre-wet with glycerin, then allow full hydration. The source advises addition below 60°C.
pH considerations
Check the selected molecular-weight grade’s stability data and the final preservative range.
Formulation considerations

Concentration and molecular weight strongly change stringiness and viscosity. A 1% stock solution is not the same as 1% dry powder; account for the stock’s water.

Often formulated alongside

Glycerin, panthenol and niacinamide in compatible aqueous systems.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotionsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Hyaluronic Acid HMW (1.0 - 1.5 MDa) ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Sodium lactate

Humectant · electrolyte

The sodium salt of lactic acid binds water and can support the feel of moisturising products. The powder and a diluted liquid grade require different formula weights.

INCI / material identitySodium Lactate
Usage guide · % w/w
1–5% of the referenced powder. Correct the dose if using a diluted solution.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Dissolve in the water phase. Record both the active material and any water introduced by a liquid grade.
pH considerations
Measure final pH. Sodium lactate is a salt, not an interchangeable acidifier for lactic acid.
Formulation considerations

Its electrolyte load can thin salt-sensitive polymers, particularly Aristoflex AVC. Check viscosity after adding other salts and again after storage.

Often formulated alongside

Glycerin and urea in body creams; electrolyte-tolerant rheology modifiers.

Creams & lotionsSerums & tonersHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Sodium Lactate Powder ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Sodium lauroyl oat amino acids

Amino-acid-derived anionic surfactant

A liquid cleansing ingredient derived from oat amino acids. It is used to build mild-feeling cleanser and shampoo blends with other surfactants.

INCI / material identitySodium Lauroyl Oat Amino Acids
Usage guide · % w/w
1–25% of the referenced liquid grade.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Blend into the aqueous surfactant phase and avoid excessive foaming during manufacture.
pH considerations
Supplied grade pH: 6.5–7.5; evaluate the finished formula at its own target.
Formulation considerations

The grade contains a preservation system that must be included in the full ingredient accounting. Its 28–32% dry extract is not necessarily the precise active-surfactant percentage.

Often formulated alongside

Amphoteric surfactants and compatible humectants; suitable shampoo-conditioning polymers.

Cleansers & wash productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Foaming Oats ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate

Anionic foaming surfactant

A powdered surfactant used in foaming powders, solid cleansers and some liquid systems. It is chemically different from sodium lauryl sulfate.

INCI / material identitySodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Usage guide · % w/w
1–4% in liquids in the cited guide; solid or paste formats can use much more. Referenced active matter: at least 65%.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Surfactant phase. In liquids, add with controlled mixing and allow viscosity to equilibrate. Use dust control for powder handling.
pH considerations
The cited 1% test solution has pH about 6.3; set final pH for the complete formula.
Formulation considerations

Viscosity may continue changing for around 24 hours. The powder’s added weight includes non-active material, so do not assume a 100% active surfactant.

Often formulated alongside

SCI in solid cleansers; amphoteric surfactants in suitable liquid blends.

Cleansers & wash productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — SurfPro™ SLSa ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Sodium PCA

Humectant · skin conditioner

A salt associated with the skin’s natural moisturising factor. This profile uses a 50% aqueous grade, which delivers half its added weight as sodium PCA.

INCI / material identitySodium PCA, Aqua
Usage guide · % w/w
0.2–2.5% of the 50% solution for leave-on products; supplier guidance extends to 3% for rinse-off.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Mix into the aqueous phase. Include the carrier water in the batch calculation.
pH considerations
Confirm finished pH and polymer compatibility; the salt contributes electrolytes.
Formulation considerations

A 2% addition of a 50% grade supplies 1% sodium PCA. The referenced solution is unpreserved; it does not preserve the final product.

Often formulated alongside

Glycerin and panthenol; a salt-tolerant thickener where a gel texture is needed.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotionsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Sodium PCA 50% ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Sodium phytate

Chelator · formula protection aid

A salt of phytic acid used to bind metal ions in water-containing formulations. The cited powder is derived from rice bran.

INCI / material identitySodium Phytate
Usage guide · % w/w
0.05–0.5% of the referenced powder.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble; oil insoluble
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Dissolve in the water phase before or during heating. It is unsuitable for a simple all-oil solution.
pH considerations
The cited grade is alkaline in water; the supplier recommends adjusting the final formula to pH 6 or below.
Formulation considerations

Recheck pH after adding it. Chelation behaviour and salt tolerance vary with the system. It cannot replace a complete antioxidant or antimicrobial preservation programme.

Often formulated alongside

Botanical extracts, oxidation-sensitive actives and compatible preservatives.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotionsCleansers & wash productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Sodium Phytate ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Sodium polyglutamate

Humectant · film former

A water-soluble polymer derived from polyglutamic acid. It contributes a moisture-retaining film and can complement the sensory profile of other humectants.

INCI / material identitySodium Polyglutamate
Usage guide · % w/w
0.05–1% of the referenced powder.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Introduce gradually into water with mixing. Allow hydration before evaluating clarity and viscosity.
pH considerations
Use the supplier’s grade-specific stability window; final pH should suit the complete system.
Formulation considerations

Molecular weight and salt content affect texture. Evaluate pilling and tack in the finished product rather than assuming a higher concentration will feel better.

Often formulated alongside

Sodium hyaluronate, glycerin and panthenol in hydration-focused products.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotionsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Sodium Polyglutamate (γ-PGA) ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Sodium surfactin

Biosurfactant · emulsifying aid

A fermentation-derived lipopeptide surfactant used at low levels in specialist cleansing and emulsifying systems. It needs a formulation process designed around its behaviour.

INCI / material identitySodium Surfactin
Usage guide · % w/w
0.1–2.5% of the cited powder.
Solubility / dispersion
Aqueous/glycerin compatible; sensitive to conditions
Phase & incorporation
Surfactant phase. Follow the supplier’s premix and D-phase process where relevant. Introduce oils very slowly in those systems.
pH considerations
Source guidance is near neutral, around pH 6.3; acidic conditions can cause precipitation.
Formulation considerations

Calcium or magnesium ions may also precipitate it. Use suitable water quality and assess chelation. Published oil-loading examples are not universal guarantees for other oils.

Often formulated alongside

Glycerin, a suitable chelator and compatible non-ionic surfactants.

Cleansers & wash productsCreams & lotionsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — SurfPro™ Surfactin ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Sorbitan olivate

Lipophilic co-emulsifier · oil structurant

An olive-derived sorbitan ester used in selected water-in-oil emulsions, lipogels and pigment dispersions. This is the main INCI of Olivem 900.

INCI / material identitySorbitan Olivate
Usage guide · % w/w
5–7.5% as a primary W/O emulsifier in the cited grade; 1–2% as an O/W co-emulsifier.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil compatible when melted
Phase & incorporation
Heated oil phase. Melt at about 75°C and follow the grade-specific emulsification and cooling process.
pH considerations
Neat material has no aqueous pH; assess the water phase and emulsion system.
Formulation considerations

It is not the same product as Olivem 1000. Water-in-oil formulas require appropriate phase ratios and mixing; an equal-weight substitution can reverse or break the system.

Often formulated alongside

Compatible oils and waxes; a primary O/W emulsifier when used only as support.

Creams & lotionsBalms & solid products
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Olivem® 900 MB ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Sorbitan stearate

Low-HLB co-emulsifier

A lipophilic, non-ionic emulsifier often combined with a more hydrophilic partner. It helps tune an emulsifier blend to the oil phase.

INCI / material identitySorbitan Stearate
Usage guide · % w/w
0.75–5%; the supplier’s typical starting range is 0.75–1.5%.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil compatible when heated
Phase & incorporation
Heated oil phase. Add to the oil phase and heat to incorporate; the cited guide uses about 80°C.
pH considerations
Choose pH for the combined emulsifier system and finished product.
Formulation considerations

Its HLB is approximately 4.7. Low HLB does not mean it will reliably stabilise every water-in-oil product on its own; process and phase ratio still matter.

Often formulated alongside

Polysorbate 80 or another appropriate high-HLB emulsifier.

Creams & lotionsBalms & solid products
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Sorbitan Stearate ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Squalane

Emollient · sensory modifier

A saturated hydrocarbon emollient with a smooth, spreading feel. Olive-derived and fermentation-derived grades share the INCI name but differ in source documentation.

INCI / material identitySqualane
Usage guide · % w/w
2–10% is a useful emulsion starting range; oil serums can use considerably more.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil soluble; water insoluble
Phase & incorporation
Oil phase. Blend into the oil phase. It can be used in hot-process emulsions or cold-blended oil serums.
pH considerations
Aqueous pH does not apply to neat squalane.
Formulation considerations

Squalane and squalene are different materials: the latter is more oxidation-prone. Verify origin if making source or vegan claims, and assess packaging compatibility.

Often formulated alongside

Caprylic/capric triglyceride, jojoba oil and oil-soluble actives.

Creams & lotionsFacial & body oilsBalms & solid productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Olive Squalane ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Stearic acid

Fatty acid · structurant

A solid fatty acid used to add body and opacity. When deliberately neutralised, it forms stearate salts with different emulsifying and cleansing behaviour.

INCI / material identityStearic Acid
Usage guide · % w/w
Illustrative: 1–5% for structure in creams; higher levels are format-dependent.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil compatible when melted; water insoluble
Phase & incorporation
Heated oil phase. Melt in the oil phase. Where neutralisation is intended, use a designed process and measured neutraliser addition.
pH considerations
Neutralisation changes pH and material behaviour; it is not just a texture adjustment.
Formulation considerations

A stearic-acid cream and a soap-based stearate cream are different systems. Excess structure can create drag or a white rub-out effect.

Often formulated alongside

Cetyl alcohol and a primary emulsifier; suitable oils to balance feel.

Creams & lotionsBalms & solid products
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Stearic Acid XXX, Flakes ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Sunflower oil

Botanical emollient · carrier

A versatile carrier oil used in creams, body oils and cleansing products. High-oleic and conventional sunflower oils have different fatty-acid profiles.

INCI / material identityHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Usage guide · % w/w
Illustrative: 1–20% in emulsions; larger proportions in oil-based products.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil soluble; water insoluble
Phase & incorporation
Oil phase. Mix with the oil phase and protect the bulk stock from unnecessary light, heat and oxygen.
pH considerations
No aqueous pH applies to the neat oil.
Formulation considerations

The reference is a high-oleic grade. Do not transfer its oxidation or sensory assumptions to a high-linoleic grade without checking the specification.

Often formulated alongside

Caprylic/capric triglyceride, shea butter and tocopherol.

Creams & lotionsFacial & body oilsBalms & solid productsCleansers & wash products
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Sunflower Oil, High Oleic ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Sweet almond oil

Botanical emollient

A spreading plant oil often used in body oils, creams and richer massage-style products. It contributes lubrication and softens the feel of the oil phase.

INCI / material identityPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Usage guide · % w/w
Illustrative: 1–20% in emulsions; higher proportions in anhydrous products.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil soluble; water insoluble
Phase & incorporation
Oil phase. Add to the oil phase. Check the grade’s refining status, storage advice and oxidation specification.
pH considerations
No aqueous pH applies to the neat oil.
Formulation considerations

This is a sweet-almond-derived material. Source and residual-protein information matter when assessing suitability and product claims; refining should not be assumed from the name.

Often formulated alongside

Jojoba oil for body oils; cocoa butter and waxes for balms.

Creams & lotionsFacial & body oilsBalms & solid products
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Sweet Almond Oil, Virgin, Unrefined ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Tara gum

Plant polysaccharide thickener

A seed-derived gum used to increase aqueous viscosity and support emulsion stability. It can provide a different texture from xanthan in gum blends.

INCI / material identityCaesalpinia Spinosa Gum
Usage guide · % w/w
0.5–2% of the referenced powder.
Solubility / dispersion
Hydrates in water; insoluble in oil
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Disperse with adequate agitation. The supplier describes hot and cold processing, with heating improving stabilising performance.
pH considerations
The cited 1% test solution is pH 5–7; assess finished-product compatibility separately.
Formulation considerations

Poor dispersion produces lumps. Hydration, gum quality and other dissolved solids influence body and clarity. It is a thickener, not a complete emulsifier or preservative.

Often formulated alongside

Xanthan gum, glycerin and appropriate emulsion systems.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotionsCleansers & wash products
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Tara Gum ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate

Oil-soluble vitamin C derivative

A lipophilic vitamin C derivative used in oil serums and emulsions. It is incorporated through the oil phase rather than dissolved in the water phase.

INCI / material identityTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Usage guide · % w/w
0.5–3% is the cited typical range.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil soluble; water insoluble
Phase & incorporation
Oil phase. Mix into the oil phase below 80°C as directed by the referenced supplier.
pH considerations
For emulsions, the cited formulation range is pH 3–6. Neat oil products have no aqueous pH.
Formulation considerations

Verify the exact INCI and specification rather than relying on similar vitamin C trade names. Protect the formula against oxidation and confirm packaging compatibility.

Often formulated alongside

Squalane, caprylic/capric triglyceride and appropriate oil antioxidants.

Creams & lotionsFacial & body oilsSerums & toners
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDA), Deodorized ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Tocopherol

Oil-phase antioxidant

Mixed tocopherols are used to slow oxidation in oil-containing formulations. They can also contribute skin-conditioning value in a finished cosmetic product.

INCI / material identityTocopherol
Usage guide · % w/w
0.25–0.75% in formulations for the cited 95% mixed-tocopherol grade.
Solubility / dispersion
Oil soluble; water insoluble
Phase & incorporation
Oil phase. Disperse into the oil phase, keeping unnecessary heat and air exposure low.
pH considerations
No aqueous pH applies to the neat material.
Formulation considerations

Tocopherol is an antioxidant, not an antimicrobial preservative. Vitamin E acetate is a different ingredient and should not be assumed to protect bulk oils in the same way.

Often formulated alongside

Unsaturated botanical oils; rosemary antioxidant extract where suitable.

Facial & body oilsCreams & lotionsBalms & solid productsHair & scalp care
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Vitamin E, Mixed Tocopherols 95% ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Tromethamine

Base · neutralising agent

A water-soluble organic base used to raise pH and neutralise suitable acid-containing ingredients or polymer systems.

INCI / material identityTromethamine
Usage guide · % w/w
0.1–1% is the cited typical guide; use only the amount required for the measured pH target.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Final adjustment. Add using the process specified for the selected polymer or formula. Mix thoroughly and recheck after equilibration.
pH considerations
Raises pH; the material’s pKa is not the finished product’s target pH.
Formulation considerations

Different rheology modifiers need different neutralisation sequences. Over-neutralisation can damage texture or active stability. Follow the raw-material SDS for handling.

Often formulated alongside

Polymers that require neutralisation; appropriate aqueous acid/base systems.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotions
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Tromethamine (base) ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Urea

Humectant · skin conditioner

A small water-soluble molecule used in moisturisers for dry-feeling skin. It can alter skin feel substantially as concentration increases.

INCI / material identityUrea
Usage guide · % w/w
2–10% is an illustrative moisturising range within the supplier’s broader range. Higher-strength products need separate development.
Solubility / dispersion
Water soluble
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Dissolve fully in water. Use a process that minimises unnecessary prolonged heating and check the cooled batch.
pH considerations
Monitor pH during storage; degradation can raise pH and produce an ammoniacal odour.
Formulation considerations

A buffer may be needed to limit drift. Check preservative effectiveness at the aged product’s pH, not only the release pH. High levels can thin some gels.

Often formulated alongside

Glycerin, sodium lactate and emollients in body or foot-care creams.

Creams & lotionsSerums & toners
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Urea ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗

Xanthan gum

Aqueous thickener · suspension aid

A fermentation-derived gum that builds viscosity and helps suspend particles or stabilise emulsions. The texture and clarity depend on the grade and concentration.

INCI / material identityXanthan Gum
Usage guide · % w/w
0.1–2% of the cited powder.
Solubility / dispersion
Hydrates in water; insoluble in oil
Phase & incorporation
Water phase. Pre-wet in glycerin or sprinkle into a well-mixed water vortex. Allow complete hydration before judging texture.
pH considerations
Useful across many cosmetic pH conditions; confirm limits for the actual grade and system.
Formulation considerations

High levels can feel stringy or leave a noticeable film. Clumps usually reflect poor wetting. An aqueous thickener supports an emulsion but does not replace an emulsifier.

Often formulated alongside

Glycerin for wetting; Olivem 1000 and other compatible emulsifiers.

Serums & tonersCreams & lotionsCleansers & wash products
Material reference: Lotioncrafter — Xanthan Gum, Clear ↗
Reference accessed 19 September 2026 · Use the exact grade’s current technical documentation.
Discuss with SKD ↗
How to read the profiles & formulation terms

Usage ranges are material-specific

Percentages are weight/weight of the finished batch. An “as supplied” dose refers to that liquid, powder or blend — not necessarily pure active. A 2% addition of a 50% solution delivers 1% active. Illustrative ranges are development starting points, not legal limits or ready-made formulas.

INCI and commercial blends

INCI is the cosmetic ingredient naming system. Some profiles cover single substances; others cover common multi-ingredient blends. The identity shown is a reference, not a finished-product label. Use the supplier’s complete declaration, including carriers and preservatives, to build your own ingredient list.

pH, phase and solubility

A raw material’s test-solution pH is different from a recommended finished-product pH. Neat oils do not have a meaningful aqueous pH. “Water phase” describes incorporation, while “cool-down” describes a process stage. A dispersion or suspension is not necessarily a dissolved solution.

Pairings are starting points

Materials listed together may serve complementary roles; the pairing is not proof of compatibility. Grade, dose, ionic charge, processing and packaging can change the outcome. q.s. means the quantity needed to reach a measured endpoint.

Preservation and oxidation

Antioxidants help slow chemical oxidation; preservatives control microbial growth. They are different functions. Evaluate the preservation system in the finished formulation, including the effect of pH drift and preservatives already present in supplied ingredients.

From reference to finished product

Check current restrictions for the intended market and product type, and complete suitable stability, packaging and safety assessment. For GB, see official cosmetic product guidance. CosIng is an ingredient reference; an entry is not approval for use.

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Educational ingredient directory. Source examples do not represent SKD stock availability or endorsement of a particular supplier. Final grade selection, formula performance and product claims need their own assessment.

Edition 01 · September 2026