Decoding Skin Types – The Chemistry Behind Custom Formulations

Introduction

Skincare formulation isn’t a one-size-fits-all approach. Each skin type has unique biochemical properties, requiring specific active ingredients, delivery systems, and pH balance adjustments.

At SKD Pharmaceuticals®, we take a scientific approach to skincare formulation, ensuring each product is optimised for different skin types and concerns. This guide explores the underlying chemistry of skin types, the factors influencing barrier function and hydration, and how formulations must be adapted for maximum efficacy.

1. The Biochemistry of Skin Types

The Skin Barrier – Why It’s Crucial in Formulation

The outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, acts as a barrier to prevent moisture loss and protect against external aggressors. Its structure consists of:

• Corneocytes (Dead Skin Cells): Flattened cells embedded in lipids.
• Natural Moisturising Factors (NMFs): Includes urea, lactic acid, amino acids to retain moisture.
• Lipids (Ceramides, Cholesterol, Fatty Acids): Maintains barrier integrity.

💡 Formulation Consideration: An imbalance in lipid composition can lead to dryness, irritation, or excessive oil production, requiring tailored ingredient choices.

Oily Skin: Excess Sebum & Lipid Dysregulation

Biochemical Profile:

• Overproduction of sebum (triglycerides, squalene, wax esters).
• Higher activity of sebaceous glands, influenced by androgen hormones.
• Increased presence of Propionibacterium acnes (C. acnes), triggering acne formation.

Formulation Strategy for Oily Skin:
✅ Oil-controlling actives: Niacinamide (reduces sebum production by 50%), Zinc PCA (sebum-regulating properties).
✅ Chemical exfoliants: Salicylic acid (BHA, lipophilic), Azelaic acid (anti-inflammatory & antimicrobial).
✅ Lightweight hydrators: Hyaluronic acid, Panthenol instead of occlusive oils.
✅ pH balancing: Optimal pH 4.5–5.5 to prevent bacterial overgrowth.

💡 SKD Pharmaceuticals® Approach: We formulate non-comedogenic, mattifying moisturisers and sebum-regulating serums for oily skin.

Dry Skin: Impaired Barrier & Moisture Loss

Biochemical Profile:

• Deficiency in ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids.
• Low NMF (Natural Moisturising Factor) production.
• Increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) due to a compromised barrier.

Formulation Strategy for Dry Skin:
✅ Barrier-repairing ingredients: Ceramides, Cholesterol, Fatty Acids to restore lipid balance.
✅ Humectants: Glycerin, Urea, Sodium PCA, Hyaluronic Acid to attract moisture.
✅ Occlusives: Shea Butter, Squalane, Dimethicone to prevent moisture evaporation.
✅ Low-pH formulations: pH 4.5–5.5 to maintain barrier function.

💡 SKD Pharmaceuticals® Approach: We create deeply hydrating, lipid-replenishing creams for dry, compromised skin.

Sensitive Skin: Hyperreactive & Inflamed

Biochemical Profile:

• Increased release of pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-1, IL-6, TNF-α).
• Weakened stratum corneum, leading to irritation and redness.
• Higher susceptibility to allergens and environmental aggressors.

Formulation Strategy for Sensitive Skin:
✅ Anti-inflammatory agents: Bisabolol, Allantoin, Panthenol, Green Tea Polyphenols.
✅ Barrier-strengthening: Centella Asiatica (CICA), Beta-Glucan, Ceramides.
✅ Fragrance-free, alcohol-free formulations.
✅ pH-maintaining compositions: pH ~5.0 to avoid barrier disruption.

💡 SKD Pharmaceuticals® Approach: We develop hypoallergenic, anti-inflammatory skincare for highly reactive skin types.

2. The Role of pH in Skincare Formulation

Skin’s natural pH ranges between 4.5–5.5, maintaining enzyme activity, microbial balance, and barrier function.

Formulation Considerations for Different Skin Types:

• Oily/Acne-Prone Skin: Slightly lower pH (4.5–5.0) to reduce bacterial growth.
• Dry/Sensitive Skin: Slightly higher pH (~5.5) to support barrier recovery.
• Exfoliating Acids: AHA formulas require pH 3.5–4.0 for optimal penetration.

💡 SKD Pharmaceuticals® ensures pH stability in all formulations to maximise product efficacy and skin compatibility.

3. Customising Delivery Systems for Maximum Absorption

Effective skincare isn’t just about ingredients—delivery mechanisms determine bioavailability and penetration depth.

Advanced Skincare Delivery Systems:

🔬 Liposomes & Nanocarriers: Encapsulate actives like Vitamin C & Retinol for deeper penetration.
🔬 Emulsion Technology: Water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions for richer creams, oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions for lightweight serums.
🔬 Microneedle Patch Technology: Transdermal delivery for enhanced absorption of peptides and growth factors.

💡 SKD Pharmaceuticals® Approach: We develop encapsulated, stabilised formulations for maximum bioavailability.

4. The Future of Custom Skincare Formulation

The future of dermatological science is shifting towards personalised skincare.

Emerging Trends in Custom Formulation:

✅ AI-Based Skin Analysis: AI-driven formulations based on real-time skin diagnostics.
✅ Microbiome-Friendly Skincare: Prebiotics & postbiotics to support skin’s natural flora.
✅ Smart Actives: Encapsulation for time-release delivery of potent actives.

💡 SKD Pharmaceuticals® is at the forefront of personalised dermatology, formulating next-gen skincare solutions.

Final Thoughts: Science-Driven Skincare for Targeted Results

Creating custom skincare formulations requires deep scientific understanding of skin chemistry, pH balance, and bioactive ingredient interactions. At SKD Pharmaceuticals®, we develop advanced, skin-type-specific formulations backed by clinical research and innovation.

👉 Looking for custom-formulated skincare backed by dermatological science? Contact SKD Pharmaceuticals® today!